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that's what i thought also...haha

i would demo them both and see which unit will best fit your needs with the least amount of headaches. when you demo the roland see if they mention the issue with the inks and if not then ask, see what they know about it. we have a mimaki solvent machine also and it's a great unit but it has its...

not sure where in PA you are but you can try tyrrell tech in Flemington NJ, that's like 25-30 min from PA they might be able to help you

the current roland eco-solvent machines are slower than machine like the xc and xr (xr might be the best machine they ever made) the UV machines are generally a little slower than the solvent machines. we were looking to replace the first truvis machine we bought like 4 years ago when they first...

just a heads up, we did end up purchasing the LG-640 and it's a good machine but they are having issues with the red and orange ink. we have been waiting for like 6 weeks for roland to ship out the new ink. the did give us a work around by putting cleaning cartridges in those two slots but i am...

best way, buy a UV flatbed printer..haha. actually the way signheremd explained is the best way that's how we used to do it (till we got a UV flatbed). maybe you can set up tables on each side of the laminator just to run this job or if this is something that will come up again build some tables...

also once you get it going properly write down all the specs/settings so if it runs again you don't have the same issue setting it up

:popcorn:

its a big shrinky dink! and if you know what that is you are old...haha

try using a PMS color that versa works will recognize or pick a red from the versa works swatches

no i have never removed brick vinyl, maybe you will get lucky. if it is coming off easy when you pick at it try a pressure washer. if you can get one that heats the water that would be best

removing regular vinyl is horrible i can only imagine how much elbow grease it will take to remove brick vinyl.

you are not going to find an aggressive adhesive for those applications that will remove cleanly. to start for plastic, wood, carbon fiber you will need a high tack adhesive and it's made to stick, be aggressive no high tack adhesive will remove cleanly.

posters we print on a paper stock, no particular brand what ever is cheapest but we don't do much of that. i believe it's a 6 mil material. as far as cart stock we don't put anything thicker than .010" through our roll printers. business cards we print on our flatbed UV machines

goof off? that takes a lot of crap off

isn't out-gasing just when you have to laminate? if it's not laminated then it will just outgas. i guess if you want to be safe let it sit for a few hours before you put it in the stand but i print, trim and mount banners in banner stands a lot with no issues (roland eco-solv inks, mimaki solv...

no shirt...no shoes...no service...pants optional

i have never used this (only because it's never come up. just did a google search) but this is the direction you want to go

you need to get a wide roll so it covers the whole surface this way you don't get the lines/shadows from the tape. it is probably over kill and will raise the cost of the job but that's the correct way to do it