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By looks you are absolutely applying way too much pressure. Think of a roller pin in your kitchen....if you press really hard on the handles (sides) then the middle is going to bow up...the same is true on your laminator where all of the pressure is being applied on the sides.....this explains...

Lots of gray area for walls...without knowing more I'll stay on the sidelines. As for windows, you should try Drytac's Polar Smooth 150 Air. It is AWESOME. 6mils thick with a clear removable adhesive on an air-egress liner. Cuts well, crazy easy to apply (charge your normal rate for...

Yes....most adhesive manufacturers will claim 2 years for shelf life. If it is in a consistent environment, despite the shelf life, the product will still work for many, many years....but in an environment where the temperature and humidity fluctuate, you'll see much shorter lifespans.

I'll send you a message to coordinate. My warehouse is in Elk Grove Village and I'll probably be there on Tuesday or Wednesday.

I have 3 year optically clear laminates for perf. The problem is the yield. 54"x100' rolls are $355.55 and 60"x100' rolls are $395. If you can live with 30" then you'll be saving a ton of money.

What characteristics do you need? If it is just for perf or something flat, I can provide you an optically clear polyester laminate that would do the trick.

If you have a sample or target you are trying to match, I'd happily come by next week and pick one up to see if any of my brands could hit the flat matte you are looking for.

Honestly, I don't really know. I'm pretty sure it comes down to the colors. The original Max inks had CMYKlclm+w+silver. The Max 2 added light black and improved the white opacity. The Max 3 is for expanded color gamut units like the VF and it has red, orange, and green as options. The Max...

As a Roland distributor, I've found the only ink I've consistently had a hard time sourcing are the Max 3 inks. I only have two users who need the Max 3...but I wish I didn't as there have been weeks delays.

I've got a customer in Chicago with an incredible Seal 5500 and 600D. No cuts in the rollers. He's looking for around $10K for the 5500 (multi-direction laminator, hot side and cold side...awesome unit) and just a few grand for the Seal 600 D. I sold these machines to this guy 20 years...

Not to say they are the only wholesale printer who does this, but they use quality materials across the board. I can't speak to the banner referenced above, but they are wildly consistent with their offerings and products they use. I think it is an impressive company who turns things around...

applying laminate by hand, as you know, is nearly impossible. I'd happily quote you on an entry level GFP laminator or introduce you to a customer of mine in Chicago selling off their old, but pristine, Seal 600D. We are based in Cleveland and can help get you up and running.

Pick up a Roland VG or SG print+cut machine. They aren't too expensive, easy to operate, and you can print, then laminate, then put it back into the printer and cut everything out. If you are in the midwest, I can send you pricing on some of the models if you want to have a conversation...and...

do you have a laminator or a flatbed applicator? Or are you doing it by hand?

the only thing you can do is get some high-temperature silicon from an auto parts store and, of all things, a razor blade and fill the cracks. You will not succeed and trying to make a roller on your own. You can take the roller off your machine and send it to a company to have it recoated...

If the box truck is smooth, you can use some Drytac products which can be applied in the cold.

We are relatively stuck with an extra 220 rolls of this awesome paper. Prints great solvent and latex (and UV). Dries really, really fast with solvent. If you still use TriSolv and have to leave your prints out in the open for a few hours to get the prints entirely dry, then you'll love this...

Wall Size from Shieldz is a great adhesive primer product. Dries very quickly...

You can find cheap heads on the internet, but those tend to not live up to the quality of the heads Roland sells. I'd strongly recommend using a technician to do something like changing a head as if you do just one thing wrong, you can instantly fry the head. I would, however, encourage you to...

UV ink costs are all over the board. On a conservative basis, I'd say you should expect to pay around $.08/ft2 for your ink usage. If you get into profiling, you can cut that cost by nearly 40%. The inks are good for about 3 years outdoors without lamination. The inks are incredibly scratch...