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Sorry about the delay.
Here's a link to WeTransfer, Cutting Master 2, builds 1.60 and 1.81.
Please let me know how it works.
(Wouldn't be surprised if I do have CM1 somewhere, stored on a floppy disk or two. :) )
I don't have the first version but found that I do have Cutting Master 2, if that is of any help?
Not a CD but two 70MB Zip files with the 1.60 and 1.81 builds.
Many orange colors are more or less impossible to convert to CMYK, they often tend to look "dirty" and dull in comparison.
Make some test prints with orange CMYK mixes and Pantone colors to see what you can achieve, then discuss with your client before spending too much time and money.
Glad to hear you found what's causing it.
I suppose you don' t have CorelDRAW since you don't mention it?
If you do, you can select all objects, right click and disable overprints for fills and/or outlines.
Not sure exactly how I set up my CG FXII (so many years ago) but it only checks for sheet/roll width, never length.
I believe I only disabled the sheet sensor and that's it, but I'm not sure.
If you want to try, go into the Setup menu (FUNCTION key, down arrow x 2, Enter).
Then push up or down...
In addition to what Adam wrote, and regarding "impossible angles":
If you select a node with the Direct Selection tool (A), you will see node handles coming out from it (if the connecting segments are curves instead of lines),
and if these two handles are at almost at the same angle, it means...
Interesting myront.
I use FineCut myself and have often thought it would be nice to get a warning when curves intersect, before sending to the plotter.
Many good tips here, and especially about the speed, that's where I would start and slow it down to 15 - 20.
But, vinyl + laminate + small details and sharp corners is a perfect recipe for creating the kind of things seen in your buffalo screenshots, but the text??? :rolleyes:
Had a similar job...
I doubt laminating would be a good idea in this case. The black ink will probably come off anyway and the black and laminate lift from the blue on the edges.
Maybe the cutting line is creating some tension to the edge, just enough to make the black start lifting, and then the tape is doing the...
Glad to hear you got it to work (the easy way). :)
FWIW, I have assigned shortcut keys to Weld (Alt+W), Trim (Alt+C) and Intersect (Alt+A) and I use them all the time.
UV inks, properly cured, should normally adhere well to vinyls, if the surface is clean.
Try wiping with alcohol before printing to see if it makes any difference.
I've found that white ink (which I suspect you are using on this rather dark blue) is a lot easier to peel off than CMYK and...
Welding the text (to itself) should work fine in CorelDRAW, no need to convert to curves first. You can but it is not necessary.
Are the inner curves completely gone, or are they still there but filled (check in Wireframe view mode)?
Sometimes when text is welded, the curve direction in...
Some more tests.
It appears that both the 18 and 20 pass modes that I added to the uni-directional 10 pass profile are in fact printing uni-directional too.
They don't get a "U" in the print mode name but I double checked and the printer only feeds when the carriage is in the left hand...
No, 18p is the only mode that can do 1200 dpi, not 20p for some reason, but I'm not sure it can for all kinds of substrates.
Must check more carefully what really happens when I try to print uni-directional.
Exactly my thoughts, som I watched it closely as it printed and no, it was only feeding while the print head carriage was on the left hand side.
I'll have to do some more tests though because the result in my initial, rather small and quick test was not as good as it should have been. I mean...
I made some tests with the uni-directional print mode on the HP 365 printer, and the edges are definitely crispier, small text look more sharp and there is a little less graininess.
The fact that it is doing 10 passes uni-directional doesn't slow down print speed much, nothing that matters for...
Static electricity is a possible cause. It tends to build up with some plastic materials and the result can be like in your images.
For comparison, print the same image on a piece of cardboard for example, to see if you get same spattering.
If not, it is most like static electricity that you...
Agree with mySign, make sure the cut marks are correctly lined up (one millimeter or so shouldn't be any problem though).
I've never used marks as big as 25 mm and I doubt it is necessary unless we are talking huge sheets.
Normally, 7 - 10 mm should be enough, just be thorough when positioning...
I checked my substrate list balstestrat and you are absolutely right, there is indeed a "Generic Self-Adhesive Vinyl optimized for small text" substrate.
Have never heard of it and apparently it wasn't known to the printer technician either, when we discussed ways to improve print quality maybe...
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