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are you saying that you put a cleaning cart in the magenta slot and it pulled just fine? if so, you can only blame the cartridge.

still there or did you head out? no ink as in empty ink tubes. as far a the cartridges, pull one to see if it's empty. if it is and you need the heads to stay wet for the weekend, pinch off the drain tubes and fill up the caps with cleaning solution, then park the carriage. when you get back...

that is quite a project. curious if not only the wavelength matches but also the joules per inch per dwell time will match as well, without overheating the substrate.

(still an extreme h700 novice here. use this printer about once a month for 20 minutes) i need to tweak a few settings in my parameters. seems i'm missing the "advanced" option in the motor tab(?) ___ i have firmware v1.4.0.1 (installed 2009). oddly my manual shows firmware v1.107 (2005)...

i print cross hairs or a tiny "trim to" line around the part, then i paint the cnc table with lasers from above. line the printed target up with the edge of the laser and cut. the zero corner on the print will be the zero corner on the cnc. there will be a long line running down the x=0...

straight butyl carbitol is not as strong/hot of a solvent as conventional cleaning solution. it does dissolve ink but more slowly. i would definitely use it for filling/parking capping stations. that's what i used it for. the inside of the print head will not dry out. a long time ago...

unreadable. i don't work with fonts ever. think of a client that is not familiar with all the scripts and such. the letters just look like scribble to me and will for most civilians.

in photoshop 1 bump up the resolution and clean up (posterize, unsharp mask, bit of median) ...whatever gets the edges clean. 2 black the image out (threshold if you want to get interior details) 3 color range - choose black 4 in "paths" docker choose drop down "make work path" 5 file -...

one thing to add to this thread concerning drying issues. i'd get a gallon of butyl carbitol. this is a glycol that is used in the ink, a retarder. it's almost impossible for it to evaporate. you can hardly torch it away. i used to have my mimaki turned off for several days and i would use...

not too familiar with the jv33. but as for slider board/main board issues, the way to go is have them repaired at a fraction of the price. kent at macmedia is the go to for this. if you contact him, he might be able to lead you through a few diagnostics before pulling and sending. one thing...

i suppose i could ask. i remember when i was considering getting an Ntek dx5 flatbed (still could use one). the spare parts were so inexpensive. encoder readers, motors, ...the works. you could pretty much stock a cabinet with everything you'd need for $700. which is probably good...

i have an email/friend that bought a dual head wit-color to replace his aging mimaki and he reported back recently (after having the printer over a year) that this printer has been fantastic. excellent investment. i believe i got the wit-color 9200 3302S (dual dx7 heads or maybe his has four...

when bringing up thousands of a certain board type, keep i mind that a belt feed flatbed is much easier to run than true flatbed that needs to run back to zero in order to run the next print. i've had both and i can't believe that i prefer the belt feed but i do.

i spray it. keep in mind that styrene can't handle a hot solvent so a fine layer with minimal to no retarder is best. you can print direct but the image won't be a fine. just depends on the distance viewed. the infeed/outfeed is another issue. how big are the prints? if they are 4x8...

clear it lightly with CAB acrylic (krylon clear if it's a small piece) and you get decent results. no heat or it will buckle. sherwin williams dull rubbed effect will match the original styrene finish.

remember postcuring of the print is an important part of the process. when doing testing, i noticed that prints that sat for six hours did better than those immediately coated. that said, certain chemicals in adhesion promoters can inhibit photo initiators. so the usual rule would be avoid...

sorry. you're right the dupont is an industrial imron line. found this stuff just now. http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26019%3Aproduct-6794 http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B66C375 i use sherwin williams for most of...

i mentioned peeling because the original entry mentioned an aluminum blank. that would entail working with raw aluminum (which i do and have for years). dibond on the other hand has a polyester coating that will not peel/oxidize off of the substrate. so you're good there. one other thing...

there are other offerings too one that can be expanded http://modulmounter.dk/engelsk/ http://www.w-w.dk/flatbed_laminator.html and chinese versions http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/10-OFF-digital-sign-making-flatbed_1206691866.html...

starting with dibond is good. a hot solvent on the ink isn't an option. it will attack it. i'd say the final coat should be a water based automotive clear. http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/Features/RefinishHome/Waterborne ppg seems to be the most common, think dupont also is popular...