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i'd also be looking for possible vacuum lock. pull some ink through the pumps from the waste line. many times they pump just can't pull hard enough to get the ink through an empty head. but after it's going, it works.
blame it on being a starving artist. my kit for whatever i do is usually laughable. thankfully, art, doesn't have high tolerance so many things can be just rounded up or down, or sideways, or diagonal.
i still do the hill billy laser right angle thing. i've considered mounting one six feet above the table, which would be ideal. but i'm just lazy and haven't gotten to it. lately i've been using my cnc about twice a year so it's gathering dust. i'm using it the next week to cut some parts...
i had to do this in a production situation with my old shopbot for a year or so. ...would have to contour cut about 80 or so of each image. i did the three cross hair marks for a while successfully. in the end, came up with a very cheap laser system.
each print had a 1'x 1' 2 pixel right...
also, resolution will not be an issue for wall paper. just about any resolution will do. 360x720 bidirectional at 140dpi will be as high as you need to go.
there are so many factors ruling out solvent and latex for what you described.
ideally a "high end" wallpaper should not be laminated...
for high end, none of the above. you'll need a uv flatbed or the new oce' uv led small roll to roll. with it, you can load all sorts of high end metallic papers, do traps with white and print color. anything else is going to give you wall paper, but not high end wall paper.
it probably got tilted in such a way during the move that flooded the cyan cap, that then chained the cart to the waste bottle and started a siphon effect draining the cyan.
i can't wait until there will be:
Professional Rap Artistry Training Institute
Tattoo and Piercing Professional Technical Institute
and
Professional Sport Star Institute
these for profit colleges should be outlawed. it's just a bunch of businessmen raping the gov't for tax dollars to con...
you can adjust the agressiveness of the carbitol by simply changing the ratio of acetone. print heads seem to be fine with all ketones. if you want to bump up the strength of the ketone, you can add MEK. as for the carbitol, i once saw an EFI msds for their "head maintenance fluid" and it was...
i had two trained graphic artists and one post grad architectural student working under me and i had a lot of issues getting a good balanced design quick or for that matter getting scores of "maybe this" quick sketches. a fine artist can see what's wrong with a design in seconds and can be...
the heads that were cleaned were flushed (maybe not as thoroughly as possible). then the printer sat in a crate for about six months during the hottest part of texas summer. when the heads wouldn't clear up we soaked them in a tray of CET oem cleaning fluid. that didn't clean them. they were...
+1 i've run a true flatbed for a year. just recently i've got a belt feed instead. i'm amazed at how much faster small to medium sheets can be set up compared to the true flatbed. but then if i have to face a 3/8" to 1/2" 5x10 piece of acrylic, i will be worried wherein a true flatbed would...
curious if you've locked this thing down. ...don't remember if you mentioned that you've run your tests in both uni-directional and bi-directional. consistent equidistant striping that goes away in uni- vs bi- is almost always a sign of a gantry (main board ribbon, ink tube clog/kink) issue.
i've only used rasterlink pro3 with the jv3 and really enjoyed it and miss it. i was forced to move to onyx production house next and it was so bad. just horrible. now i'm stuck with onyx 7. also horrible.
changing the ribbon isn't a diagnosis/solution. if the port providing bad data is a...
we used v-carve and some other b/w imaging program to edit from grayscale to 3d for the cnc. it took some practice to interpret what was up and down with the extreme whites and blacks. in the end the whole mess was boring and the panels took ages to mill. we ended up passing on a $75k order...
when you say replacing the "strips". what strip is that? because it's in the yellow only, are you saying it's the data ribbon to the yellow? if yellow data is in question, you or your tech would do a data swap first instead of assuming it's a signal fault.
reading about data swaps...
also, did you check the uni- vs the bi- on the yellow. a light band between a darker band in a single color can point to a clog or kink in the yellow line. the ink tube acts as a quasi-peristaltic pulling ink going in the vacuum direction then allowing it to flow in the positive direction...
i'd run a more telling print. first do four 4 x 50 blocks each in c m y and k. see if this odd drop out is happening in only one head or all. if you identify it's one head, then it's very possible that you have
a clog in a line that is starving the head going one direction. so now run that...
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