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We use Oracal 3651 clear.
As already mentionedm, you will need white ink capabilities in order to prime behind the image so that it doesn't get washed out - unless decals will be applied to white surfaces only.
Thank you for the info!! I played around with it a bit and got it to work on one printer but not the next. Will explore more.
I agree it would be nice if it could apply to all profiles but I guess it wouldn't be accurate then, as each profile/mode will have different ink limits etc.
So output...
Awesome, thank you!! I can't believe I've never come across this before in Thrive. Was able to set it up exactly like you described....but not sure if it's picking it up. Does it usually show it anywhere under Named Color Replacement or Color Replacement? I'm assuming there should be some...
I realize this is only "your take"................but if that's your view on Gerber Edge setups you're missing out! We can print thousands of dollars worth of 1-2 color decal/label orders on a single Edge 2 machine in a day. Pair that with a sprocket fed Gerber plotter and they're still...
Can't say I've ever met a 3M material that didn't have their logo splattered on every single inch of the liner....that said we've never used IJ35 before.
Can you elaborate on this a bit? I find we spend way too much time doing manual color replacements for almost every job and would love to create workflows that automate some of those manual steps.
Is it a question of creating color filters that will pick up certain colors and edit output...
I've always assigned the cmyk values from the swatch right in Onyx (Color Replacement).
I find this will give accurate results. I believe the cmyk values on swatches are "output values" where as what you were using is "input values", but someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Yeah that seems excessive for a week, especially if you have periodic cleaning turned off. (Nice to see they finally upgraded the waste ink tank design though!)
That drove me nuts on our Rolands..........even with periodic cleaning turned off it would clean itself all the time.
Personally I'd keep outsourcing until you have the demand/volume to get a decent sized machine. 40" x 40" bed won't do you much good (not even half a sheet), and I wouldn't trust a $500 CNC for professional work.
Just my thoughts - I don't have a ton of CNC experience either other than...
If the material, prep method and inkset has stayed the same, I'd definitely look into the bulbs.
LED's have much longer lives than traditional (Canon traditional is like 500 hours but we run to 800-900 usually) but they still need to be replaced eventually.
We've never had any luck printing to...
That's insane. With rivets and hardware yet! How long does the pre-seaming of the panels take though? That's gotta take some time to get it right. Would love to see that whole process as well.
I have no experience with Mutohs, Vinyl Express plotters or that RIP you mentioned....but I can say with absolute certainty that Rasterlink is the worst RIP I've ever seen/used. We use Onyx Thrive to drive all our printers & cutters and once you're used to it, it's good. It's not cheap but...
Print some labels that clearly indicate cast / cal, manufacturer, series, open date, and supplier. (Or some sort of variation of that)
Here is what we came up with. (attached - feel free to use/customize as needed) We'll print sheets of them and just peel and stick when we open a new roll.
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