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I had a customer that wanted the same thing several months ago, and I found a couple of suppliers, but my cost was over 2 grand.
I ended up figuring materials, and paying a local tig welder, and doing the lighting in house. But I'm my case, it was a huge waste of time, as she wanted cheap...
Can I ask you a serious question, and Its not meant to be mean, but do you run a hobby vinyl shop? The reason that I that I ask, is you seem to have a lot of excuses to attempt to keep your prices low...
Can we tackle each one?
You got some very good points, but I'm dealing with lots of...
Your only charging 55 per hour for removal? You really are leaving money on the table...
Removal is the **** job of the sign industry... at least make it worth your while. And remember that your charge should be per man hour.
When I do removal, I charge minimum of $75 per hour. And if...
As far as removal, try a wallpaper steamer. It heats up the adhesive and softens the vinyl, making removal that much easier.
As far as application, I'd think rapid tac and a heat gun would be the way to go... you can use application fluid on most vinyl, except reflective.
For cheap, Signs365.com and you can cut by hand, of they are square. Also check out b2sign.com, but they are slower getting across the country, but they are cheaper.
They are not UL. My local town rarely requires it. Sometimes the customer will ask, but when faced with the extra cost and shipping for a finished cabinet, they go with the kit option...
And before anyone says that I'm just throwing components together, I have been in the sign industry for 25...
What's bad is it will be laying on the floor by the car the next morning...
Now do you charge extra for the labor install because of what it is, and they can afford it? Or do you just ask to take it out for a quick spin? (And by that I mean donuts in the parking lot. )
All the cabinets I have ever done i build in house from a knock down kit from my local sign supplier. It comes complete with mitered extrusion, aluminum backs and plastic for faces, lamps, sockets, and ballast.
The Allwood is expensive because it's solid cedar...not a cheap alternative. It's made for sand blasting.
If you must have it 2" and woodgrain, hdu is the way to go. It can be blasted or routed, and depending on the amount of time prepping the setup, the more realistic it can be.
How small are we talking?
Also, I have found that if it's really small, leaving it for a day or two, sometimes some vinyl will separate.
You mentioned that your using avery and a laminate. I assume that it's printed graphics. If not, use a regular high performance vinyl. The laminate is...
Or, you could have just put the material that would be for the swb truck, and leave the extra blank (unwrapped), and tell them that they had too much truck for the artwork...
And if you have the ability to paint, you can send the files to several different vendors, they can machine the material, and send it to you to do the finish work.
Has anyone ever used Acrylic Clear 4005 (AA) in Aerosol?
I have a sign that I did about 6 or 7 years ago with Sign Foam, and the background paint which was 1 Shot has faded out to a really light blue. My customer has called me as asked for a quote to repaint. To prevent it from fading...
Will this mean that end users ( those who want to create their own signs to circumvent their local shop for whatever reason) will be welcome?
The reason that I ask is because if they are allowed to join, and pay for the premium membership, will get to see discussions about pricing? (A peek...
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