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I think so too, but I also think the decision is best made with hands on and not from the ground. Nothing wrong with servicing signs, but there definitely are some doozies out there. There is one down the road from us that the plaza owner knows better than to call me to service. Next person to...

Uncle Bun hit it. I'm betting the rapid tac is a no no.

Not see thru for backlit but my galvanized tops are over 20 years old and doing just fine. Plus is that magnet will stick to it.

Way back before squirty jets, I used krylon on vinyl to make fades before cutting. The keytones made it adhere really well. But as you said, a little at a time or the properties that make the paint stick to the vinyl can ruin it if applied too liberally. Another trick was to spatter vinyl with...

Never even thought about it, I just set parameters on cutter. Pretty much only use two settings these days.

Same way you eat an elephant, one piece at a time ;-)

Took 5 months to get panela sugar for my distillery out of S America. Between shipping and labor strike it put us at a standstill for a bit.

Dress nice but safe, put non slip carpet runner down if you absolutely have to stand on counter. I was always taught to put your best foot forward when in front of a customer. Brush your hair, check your breath, fresh shave, etc. Shows and gets respect. I would never go to an install dressed...

For me it's just experience and the ability to see a straight line where others cannot. My wife has to measure every little thing after 20 years still. Leave heat off, go thru motions of placing shirt on platen and placing the graphic on shirt. Remove from press with graphic still applied to...

Don't really know, only said Arlon on backer, no other id. It was air egress, sort of.

Can't help but I can understand how you feel, had some customer supplies printed cut graphics on arlon the other day to install on camper. Holy schizznit that is the stickiest crap around. Hated it. Took entirely too long to apply.

Rarely do them any more. Screen print on gloss white vinyl, occasionally do die cut. I plot rectangle for stock with cut lines for nested stickers inside and print.

I'd make the cleat from acrylic and bond it to the back of sign.

Shame, that looks like a very nice piece of work. JMO, not near enough adhesive or tape for that application. Maybe a nice thin french cleat instead?

Not with that product but been using their screen inks over 40 years and used their brand in my seiko colorpainter for years. They are the manufacturer not a reseller, quality has always been there.

Might not help but on my graphtec the initial menu gives you choice between rear set and front set. Front set will try to read the roll to the end first as you are experiencing.

Signlab has its own rip.

Two tricks before giving it the ol' heave ho. (1) Try wiping it with a dab of rapid remover and see what happens and (b) quick pass with a heat gun. If those don't work, send it back.

I no longer have a large format printer but ran a full solvent seiko on signlab for 10 years, maybe this will help, maybe not. I used signlabs 3m high perf profile on everything on the seiko. Banner material, cheap vinyl, IJ180, laminate reverse print for windows, all looked the same.

Instead of rubbing compound try glaze. Comes in three grades. I use it on semi doors from time to time to get rid of ghosting. Never gets 100% but usually looks much better and happier customer for a little more effort and time that you get to charge for.