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If resizing is somehow going to grab you by the cojones and slam you to the ground, by all means leave it exact. Otherwise, not so much.

Perhaps you might want to do something about your quadbivalency.

By hand with a foam brush. Some use rollers, I just like the brush. The liquid laminate levels quite well, all you have to do is make sure the media is sufficiently coated [no dry brush] and there's not big blobs of laminate.

Should have cut out the space between the tail and the body. Hand lettering not great but not bad either. Better than 99% of the participants here could do.

Liquid laminate. The liquid provides orders of magnitude more UV protection than vinyl. The liquid is tough, but vinyl is tougher. The most of my clients are not to be found crashing through the brush so it really doesn't matter.

Been doing signs since your parents were making in their pants, have a solvent printer, and have never owned or even used a laminator.

If it were mine to do I'd dye-sub coat, print, and heat press. That would be the best solution. If that capability weren't available, cut it from high performance cast vinyl, apply it to a CLEAN surface, and clear coat it with liquid laminate. If having a smooth clear coat without the vinyl...

Set your pricing based on what you have to have to stay open, keep a roof over youir head, eat, that sort of stuff. If no one will pay it, shrug and find something else to do with your time. But never step on your own metaphorical dick just to get a job.

Did I insult you? Did I say your mother was a warthog? Did I say anything about you at all? I don't think so. What I did address is what you want to produce. My opinion on that remains unchanged. Nonetheless, in the spirit of... bog knows what... I offer this suggestion. If you just have to make...

Perhaps you should have searched for 'incredibly tacky hand painted plywood outdoor two dimensional images of things sufficiently cute as to make the casual observer gag'.

Uline.com might have this sort of thing.

Black on black is best achieved by silk screen. Always has been. You can coax it out of this and that high end printer but then you have to deal with lamination which tends to negate the effect. It's a stunt, not a technique for production. Unfortunately silk screen for one offs is somewhat...

Back in the pre-vinyl days the saying went "Inside of a one man sign shop is a starving sign painter". True at the time and perhaps even more so today. Not only must you become an all-around vinyl wrangler but a digital pressman as well. The latter is far more art than science and usually takes...

How exactly is power physically connected to the vinyl? Are there terminals on the material?

Dye-sub is the preferred method for printing on kitchenware. Virtually anything imaginable, especially cups and such, are available as dye-sub coated. The result is permanent and won't wear off.

Only if it's still attached to the coon.

That's just the protective plastic sheet the gets shredded, the cut on the actual material looks just fine. Peel off the plastic, dust them off with a soft foxtail brush. Don't wipe them with anything except maybe a tack cloth but that's not necessary. Then use them.

Welding the text and the line produces more consistent results than trim. Usually.

The 'just rip it off' technique works just fine. Especially if you do the ripping in a series of sharp tugs instead of one mighty snatch and jerk. When possible I try to reduce frustration by running a weed line horizontally right through the center of the text. How you do this depends on what...

'Outgassing' may be something handy for scaring small children into going to sleep but for solvent of most any kind printing is't pretty much a myth. If a solvent print is dry to the fingertip glide test, then it's dry for whatever purpose. Do not confuse this with the actual physical changes to...