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For the HP, there's two types of files, .oms & .oml. OMS files need to be loaded through the web interface on the printer, OML files are loaded through the Onyx software.

Anyone had any luck with any brand of premask sticking to vinyl jobs off the H1625? The two brands I've tried (3M SCPS-2 & TransferRite Ulta) barely stick to the printed areas. Makes applying cut decals to things a big time bear.

never had much luck with the Graphtec tracking straight on large runs... so I never run anything longer than 4-5' unless I have to.

A hybrid flatbed works pretty well to complement the 260's. I have a EFI H1625LED with my HP 310. The EFI runs all my rigid material and whites, use the HP for the majority of the PSA vinyl, banners, posters, etc. I'm not sure I'd recommend the EFI (the 16h is a better machine but wasn't out yet...

Your old designer was probably using the Cutting Master plugin for Illustrator. Under File in Illustrator, you should see Cutting Master 3 or Cutting Master 4. 3 is pretty straightforward, but I haven't spent enough time with 4 yet to walk you through anything. In 3, you just pick the...

in general I like to get my temperature in the 200-210 range for most stocks and then play with the passes until I get one that works properly from the media setup.

Here's ours... Text was done w/ reflective but it's rainy so tough to tell.

Go to the Substrate Library, pick favorites, then touch the black stars on anything you don't want to be a favorite. You'll have to do them one at a time. Then tell your people to stop selecting add to favorites when they add a new substrate. :)

I've used the 3M SCPS.

I'd go with contamination... if you already have a profile for IJ35, IJ35C should use the same profile, the vinyl is the same stuff. (heck I run IJ40 on the same profile as IJ35).

I'm sure he's like me and just doesn't run enough cut colored vinyl to justify buying rolls of material to sit in the closet til he needs it again.

Is the material high gloss? I've had problems with the eye reading the ARMS marks correctly on materials that are extra shiny. Sometimes have to cover the ARMS with mask and hand draw over the top. Looking at the screenshots it looks like there's distortion on the cuts (ie: it's not cutting the...

I use the Sihl Picasso (3609) on my HP and prints look great on it.

I have a 310 (which is nearly the same as the 315) that I do the majority of my poster, decal & banner work on. I can't say it's without problems but I expect them from everything and while loading can be a little bit cumbersome with heavier materials, it's really not that much of a PITA. It...

I've used the built-in Remote Desktop and RealVNC (which has multiple iterations, some of which are open source).

I ran a ton of smaller vinyl product labels on that stuff. Your main concern is you don't want a laserjet that runs too terribly hot (not really sure how you'd know, I know Xerox said they ran at lower temps). If you're using off the shelf like Oracal 641, then you definitely don't want anything...

I've been using 3M 8624... but that's not a ton cheaper than the 480 (looks like ~10% from Grimco).

there is digital vinyl out there, but I'm not sure what would work with what you're asking about. I'm assuming the HP to be a small desktop laser printer (which tend to run hot). The heat and amount of turns/etc in the paper path could cause problems. When I was on the small format side, I...

I know with my Graphtec, it doesn't read marks well under glossy laminate so occasionally I have to cover them w/ masking tape and redraw them on the mask.

Creating jigs for pre-cut pieces and then printing those pre-cut pieces. Backlit displays using white to blockout the backlit light in areas to create "night-time" effects. I do corrugated boxes (precut ones) occasionally too and they can be a PITA.