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Have you tried adjusting the media settings at all? You can increase print density pretty easily from there. I think I was running 110 or 120 on reflective here. Usually the media profiles on the printer side require tweaking to get it right where you want it (I notice a tendency for a lot of...

looks like something trying to replicate the Boston Red Sox font. https://www.dafont.com/bosox.font or https://newenglandrepro.com/red-sox-free-fonts/ or https://famfonts.com/boston-red-sox/ might work for ya?

I'd be more concerned that he didn't run a calibration before he printed his swatches the first time. My 310 stays pretty consistent even with headwear. Another thing is enabling "Long Run" mode on your media. Without that enabled, the first prints off tend to be off as the machine heat isn't...

coolant is mostly water w/ some glycol so it shouldn't cause any issues mixing them.

Good to know, thanks for the info. I haven't had to print anything terribly uneven but I'll keep that in mind.

How do you find the image quality printing uni-directional?

I've used Sihl Imola PSA (3670)... it's more of a semi-gloss (looks like your typical gloss press sheet) than full-on gloss though.

If you open up the cloud client, the drop down under PhotoShop has Manage / Other Versions. It'll let you load whichever works for what you need... and you can keep 2019 on there too. I'm doing the same for Illustrator since I hate the new Graphtec plugin so I have to use 2017 still if I'm cutting.

Creative Cloud allows you to run old versions of Photoshop (all the way back to CS6). Can't you just install that and keep using your plugins?

odd... I've had the same roll of Briteline cling for well over a year and I've had no issues when I drag it out for onesie twosies.

thanks guys... this one just got me today.

wonder if he meant inches in his earlier post.

I know my EFI H1625 is only doing about 4 boards an hour (i run at 600x600 so I could probably go faster if I cut the resolution). I've heard its replacement 16h is ~2x as fast, but that's still nowhere near 10. If you're mainly doing coro, I'm not sure I'd recommend the H1625 as on heavy...

mine does that too... likes to set my 54's to 58's and 36's to 38's.. I just override it in Onyx to the correct size. I'm guessing it's because the media's not always flush w/ the roll so it thinks it's slightly larger than the media actually is and rounds up to the nearest larger size.

I always look at someone like Signs365 as a starting point for banners. If they charge $1.49/sqr ft, you should be charging at least 3x that (before adjusting for volume/etc.).

I like Catapult Launch's Phoenix Retractable... it's not glossy, has an interesting texture and doesn't scratch like the standard polypropylene. I know other vendors carry similar things as well.

I'm pretty much exclusively 3M... so IJ35 w/o air release for things like small decals & cut lettering & IJ40 for everything else that's "basic". I use the same profile on the HP for both. I've used Oracal before without any problems, mostly 3551 & 3165, but I haven't tried anything cast...

I was never able to get 751 to work with my latex 310. That stuff melts way too easily. It's not spec'd for Latex either.

It's definitely the air dry, I know it's better if I use a 2nd rag to dry wipe after the alcohol. It's still a bit annoying trying to clean down a large piece and dry wipe it before it air dries.

Anyone have issues with ink adhesion printing to coroplast with the H1625? The ink seems tacky initially after printing and heavy solids are relatively easy to scratch. I've seen people mention adhesion promoters and what not in other threads, but I'm not sure that's the proper route and 90% of...