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The cleaning fluid would be the solvent fluid you use to clean the machine. I am not familiar with flush fluid, so I cannot say if it's the same.

We've been lucky, we only hit our first supply chain issue last week with our epoxy supplier, seems as though they are having a hard time getting their raw materials to make their products. Hopefully it starts to get better, as this is the life blood of our business and if we can't get it, might...

We encountered our first supply chain issue last week, surprised it didn't happen before, but it seems as though our epoxy supplier is having a hard time getting the raw materials to make their product. Also have noticed shipping has gone up a lot on even the small stuff, things that use to cost...

Interesting, I can't say I've done it a lot, but, I've done it a few times and I had a hard time clearing it out completely, as it kept a little residue, but I also used the same dampers, so that might have been a partial reason. Anyways, I'd still recommend the syringe first.

The only thing about 3rd party inks, is that some aren't made the same as the OEM, which can mean, different pigmentation or they gum up the machine, so if going for 3rd party, make sure they are a high quality brand and the colors will be very close.

I'm not sure I would recommend switching the colors, as it is a pain to get the colors properly after (from experience) without running cleaning cartridges through, but as a last resort you could try, but I'd try to pull from the cap top line with a syringe to see if you can get all the nozzles...

That is exactly what it is. There is too much ink being laid on that media, more heat might help a bit, but a profile that puts down less ink would be more ideal along with extra heat. I've had similar issues with Oracal 3268M, with those those same colors.

You're welcome. Also, make sure the printer is completely off and unplugged before you start playing with the cables, otherwise that is a quick way to blow a fuse or board.

Not cables, the plastic lines, but I assume that's what you mean. But I like to make certain.

I don't really think the cap top is the issue, as all your other colors look good. I'm still thinking the cable, that would be the cheaper fix. As for a soak, make sure you clamp off the cap top lines, as all the fluid will just run down and out and it's not really soaking at that point.

I don't think so, usually what 3rd party inks do, if they aren't of good quality, is gum up the head, not make it go wavy. If it's not the cable, then there must have been a head strike that made the nozzles go wonky, but I don't suspect the head to be the culprit. Also when were the cap tops...

For Orajet products, I find the SG-G Semi-Gloss Grey Glue profile works great on the SP-300V.

Are you trying to cut through the backing? As that isn't recommended, that would be the problem, as Roland's aren't meant to cut completely through the material, just the top layer, then you weed off the extra and peel off the backer when applying it.

There definitely is something going on with the head, it could be the cable as mentioned above, or it could be the head had a head strike, but more likely it isn't the head if it comes and goes.

If it didn't cut through the backer, that is great news, as you don't want that, but if it isn't cutting through the top layers, then try adding a little extra force, but not too much. As previously mentioned, the BN-20 doesn't do all that great on thicker materials, so it is harder on the blade...

I would say your dampers would probably need replacing if that's the case, a lot cheaper then a head, lol.

Kind of, I figured it didn't exist, but it didn't hurt to ask. The process we currently use can be very delicate and produces a lot of waste. It wouldn't be to replace, just an additional option.

My suggestion for the future if your not using it on a regular basis is to pinch off the cap top lines and fill them with solvent so they can soak, or alternatively, do a normal cleaning daily and manual cleaning once a week, even if not using, that way it will stay in the best shape you can.

That test print does look quite rough though. If cleaning aren't working to revive, the only other option before getting new heads, would be to attach a syring at the bottom of the cap top line and try to pull ink through, then do a cleaning and see if it brings back any of the nozzles.

That's exactly it, you get the small one when in the service menu.