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I've had almost every issue you can over the years with my SP-300V's, so if I can assist, I will try.

I agree, if cap tops and dampers don't fix it, then the head will need replacing, but do those first, as they are a lot cheaper.

LOL, not quite what I need. We currently use an epoxy, just looking to see if there is something out there that we could use that wouldn't require that step and that is the material itself, so all we'd need to do is print and cut, then apply whatever and it would harden it up and not be flimsy...

Great, sounds good.

For a new production method of our current promotional product line. Not sign related.

Looks from the thread name, it was resolved with a new cap top.

Spring LP Regular seems really close

I can't really say about if that would cause that much trouble, but he's never steered me wrong before. As for the fill up, I think he means to actually do the damper fill from the menu, not a cleaning, but typically, if it's at least half full, you should be okay. I don't have any experience on...

It does sound like a cut strip issue, as I've had the same issue on my VS-300i, and what happens is that the blade does warm up and cool down while it cuts, so my theory is that is why sometimes it cuts through and sometimes not, but once you change the strip and lower the pressure, they should...

Just heard back from my friend, this is what he had to say: "I do see a bit of waviness in the cyan. You can have a near perfect nozzle test print and still have head issues. I would suggest doing a test print in service mode and looking at the additional second lines. Also the fill pattern in...

We've had a fair share of troubles, mainly related to the heads. We have a SG, we bought ours used from the local dealer, so it was fixed up (or so they say). It has been a bit of a headache for us, however, as I've come to understand the machine more, it does have some plus to it. I still...

Hi folks, I have an unusual question for you. Is there a product out that that is a printable plastic sheet for Roland inkjets that is flimsy, but hardens stiff after you apply a spray or something? Not sure if anything like that exists, but thought if it did, one of you might know. Thanks.

That would be my guess as well, I've had similar issues cutting thicker material and it usually is the cutting strip needs replacing.

But it wouldn't be the head, as the test print looks great. My other guess would be the head alignment might be out a bit and might need a tech to take a peak, now that you are locked out of the service menu. I've also asked my Friend who is a Roland tech if he could take a look at the photos...

Not in American, but in Canadian, it's $1500 a head, we actually just had to replace both about a month ago. The used machines themselves typically sell for around 10k Canadian here.

Have you tried slowing it down to like 300? I know on certain medias I use, I have to do that, but for me, it's more speckling, then banding. I also find that the GCVP profile works really well on many medias.

I'm also wondering how the progress is going on these, very interesting to see the refurb process.

If the fill doesn't work, have you tried doing uni-directional and slowing down the print speed?

Have you tried adding extra dry time in between prints?

I would say, if you're trying to block out, a white static cling wouldn't be the right fit, as you'd be able to see under it unless you put a dark background on it. You'd more want a super low tack adhesive.