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It could still be blowing for some reason. I'd check it with a volt meter to confirm.

It's pretty old of a cutter to bring back from the dead. But an old Windows XP computer and Flexi should work.

If everything works fine except it doesn't print, check the F13 fuse on the main board for continuity. If it's blown, the head won't fire.

I don't have one anymore unfortunately. If you can find an old one, it should work. Newer boards don't have the jumper anymore and just have different part numbers depending on the model.

We've all been there!

Tape some material to the end of the banner sheet. It will allow the pinch rollers to continue to hold the material and cover the sensor it needs to.

If you have Power Point you should be able to print the file but choose the PDF print driver instead of a printer. That will save it as a PDF.

Magenta or green hue in grays is a fairly common issue with CMYK printing. The fix is to make and maintain your own profiles. If you can't do that, it's basically down to trial and error with your CMYK values. In your case, since it's a solid object with no gradients or images, you should be...

If we do end up in a recession, the used equipment market will come alive again. The last decade it's been cheap to borrow money so people have just been buying new. We used to sell used equipment all the time but now it's very far and few between. Once that cheap money isn't an option anymore...

That looks like it should be working fine then. It must be something different. I'd be willing to bet it's a color input or output profile though.

It's probably the rendering intent settings in Rasterlink. Rasterlink defaults to two different rendering intents for vector and bitmap. This is fine if your file is all solid objects as the RIP just renders whatever is on top. But if you have a raster transparency layered on top of a vector...

You have to do all of the following within 5 seconds: Push the following buttons in order: Down, Right, Left, Up, Right, Down, Left Then push and hold these buttons while powering on: Right, Down, Left

I've installed printers for over 13 years and have leaned a lot about how people like to be trained and what works well. I learned very early on that the goal of the initial training should be to teach the customer just enough that they can get a basic job done. If you go into the bells and...

It's possible. I am always reluctant to recommended motors because in 13 years working on these machines I've only seen 1 motor ever fail. Seeing as this model is a little older, maybe the motor has just run it's course.

Cutting before printing is actually meant to prevent curling. It should be an option you can turn off though. Unfortunately I don't know how.

Any air that gets into the system eventually get's pulled out during cleanings if all the seals are good. Air bubbles in the system that do not get pulled out usually indicate an on going leak. Ink rarely drips out when there is a seal break. Instead air gets sucked into the system. If the leak...

The fact that it recovers fairly easily and stays that way while printing means it's more likely an ink flow issue. Did you change all of the dampers or just the problem ones? If you only changed one, that could be the issue. Sometimes when you have a strong new damper and a weak old damper it...

You can even unplug the printer and still pop fuses and damaged heads after there is no power to the machine. It's always best to unplug and wait about 15 minutes before working machines.

It's tough because the symptoms seem to contradict each other but I would get a few new pinch rollers and see if the problem goes away in that spot. That way you can rule them out or, if they do fix the issue, you know what to do next. Other than that my gut says the head or some electrical...