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Most anything. It's every bit as flexible, if not more flexible, than vinyl. Basically Clear Shield is a liquid acrylic with UV inhibitors and this and than mixed in. When properly applied** it leaves an ~.001" thick sheet of coating. As opposed to an ~.002" or better sheet of coating for vinyl...

It's the laminate not the vinyl. I've just about given up laminating anything with vinyl laminate because of this. Of course I'm a mile closer to the sun than the most of you flatlanders and the UV is far more intense at these altitudes. Unless the product is going to see an excessive amount of...

Probably not. There isn't much if anything a mere mortal can do to deal with a bolt of lightning. Best just to unplug everything.

First, unless the subject window is flat glass, merely taking a picture and/or taking measurements of a three-dimensional object will inherently be inaccurate. You need to make your own template by taping a sheet of paper to the window in question and traces its outline with a sharpie. Then...

The '53' is Hevetica compressed. Bog knows what the 'I' or perhaps '1' might be.

Not quite there Mr. Engineer.. The operative words here are 'self tapping' be it a drill point or any other point. Moreover the 'drill point' is a taste smaller the the body diameter of the screw. Once tapped, the hole is tapped. A screw, one of the six simple machines by the way, will want...

They're little screws. Nobody but the terminally anal will notice them. It's the proper way to do it.

Two wooden blocks, two C clamps, a piece of 1" pipe, a 3" core, and a couple of the plastic bushings that come with every roll of mask. I'll leave it to you to figure out where all the pieces go, it's not rocket surgery.

Algerian

You people either have never spent any time outside of a city or you have to be kidding. A powered driver for t posts? Save about $1000.00 and ease on down to your local farm supply store and pick up a t post driver. Its' a ~4" steel tube with a weighted cap on one end and a pair of handles...

I have some odd ball colors of Oracal 651 and 751, some over 10 years old. From time to time I'll use some of this material with no problems. When you have a roll of old vinyl that's be out in the air for a long time it's prudent to unwind the amount of media that's be expose to the air. That...

Seeing as how you're herding Flexi and a fairly recent Graphtec just set the registration mark type to 4 point manual. It should be the first one on the list. This will print four little marks, two concentric circles and a cross, Print it and load the print into the plotter. Start the cut job...

And of those who died yesterday, few planned on it.

It's better to have two hands than one glove.

Try setting your Rendering Intents for bitmaps to 'Perceptual' and send a plain vanilla RGB jpg file. This should give you as close to what you see is what you get as you're likely to achieve.

Your mark is your mark. It's whatever you say it is and whatever you want it to be. Scrawling with a writing instrument, a rubber stamp, a scanned image, or horking onto a document. Whatever you choose to use, it's intended to show that you actually have been there. None of it does that but...

Start again and go in some different direction. All of the efforts thus far look contrived and are ghastly.

Interesting since a signature on a fax and on an email attachment are functionally identical. Both are an optical scan of exactly the same thing. Your mark.

So print it and see what it looks like. It's not rocket surgery.

2383c via 30 seconds on Google: CMYK: 82; 33; 0; 32 sRGB: 32; 116; 174 Hex: #2074AE