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if you want to prove if the pumps are working, you can do pump tube swaps. ...just put the pump line from a good color on to the captop line of the color that isn't working. see if it pulls color. also, dump some solvent down the caps while a partner pulls a vacuum at the waste line end. if...

for a small shop, get a decent used shear for lots of short cutting (52" or less) for $600. if you do a lot of short and long cuts. get a track saw with a decent carbide triple chip for the same $600 (plus it will cut anything from acrylic to veneer to plywood too). since i got my track saw i...

your capping station may not be set as high as the last one. did you shim it or leave out some shims? can you hear any air leaks if you pull a vacuum at the drain line end? if you don't have good contact you will hear a hiss. i actually have my station raised a razor blades thickness on the...

the chinese speaking friend may help. but i've been discussing this custom printer build for weeks with different chinese manufacturers and i'm really impressed with how fluent some of their sales people are. from what i can tell, the chinese distrubutors mostly prefer to use messengers to...

after asking lots of questions, researching, etc. i decided to build my own flatbed printer. hopefully i can have it finished by around the end of spring. it will be 7' x 24' and run color and monochrome and be insanely fast. i'll probably start a thread about the build.

i've seen lots of generic ones available out of taiwan and china. you might be able to get one from inkmed. but if you are shipping from china, i'd also go crazy and get a load of dampers and such too. are you sure that it is bad? take a piece of paper and put it behind the strip. get a...

essentially the data swap is rearranging the ribbon cables (safely) so that a particular channels data is sent to a different head. much like crossing your legs and putting your right foot in your left shoe and vice versa. keep in mind when the data is ported to a different head, that...

don't think that can be encoder. the encoder will give you a universal effect. i'd do a data swap and see if you can bump the issue to a different head for isolation. aa

i'd just leave the snow. it's part of the scene. they may use lots of close ups to get the reflections and do cgi for the full body low res stuff.

awesome. what what it so that some other signs101ers may not get stuck with the same issue? _____ even the mimaki service manuals are a bit odd. will not boot / replace main pcb banding / replace main pcb dust on lcd panel / replace main pcb

i don't own either one, but i got the chance to get a really good look at both of them and if they were both free sitting in my driveway and a guy said pick one you have three seconds, i'd grab the CET in one second's worth of contemplation. think of the CET as a ford f150, and the fb500 as a...

i'd do a lot of research before buying new. i've seen these printers selling one year old for very low figures. and auction closed at $13k, one on digitalprintmarket.com at $9k for many weeks. a demo was on ebay for $25k for months with "0" bidders.

pm me your email address. i have the jf1631 manuals and service tech updates, and mechanical drawing, etc. it's two .rar's about 19mbs each. can your email server do 19mb? i know that google in america can do 25mb.

do you need the service manual for it? i've got 38mb's of service stuff for that printer.

see it print, not a test print. a file, like something 3' long. if you are a slightly mechanical type, you'll be fine for the time that it takes to get some experience with lfp. ...you will be taking your shop into the late 80's. but who cares. you need control of your output if you are...

if the ink is bone dry it should work well. the ink will just act as a primer. i'd keep the printer on slow (not fast mode) just to give the dot gain difference a bit more time to bite. but way more ink will not always give you the result you want. it could bleed if you load it up to heavy.

i did the 500mm size test thing in service mode. and for the life of me i couldn't figure out how to do the adjustment. the manual made no sense to me at all. basically i'm running 502mm long instead of 500mm. so that tells me nothing. if anything, it should have come up short. can someone...

take off the manifild to the head. there's a slit down the middle (the manifold gasket jumps across the long "hole"). around the edge of that slit connections go laterally and then dive down into the head. right at the the point that those connections take a quick 90 degree turn downward...

thanks for all the input. i think i've got some diagnosing to do this afternoon. plus i will put a ruler at 100" down the right side of my print so as i over print i can monitor when or just how the feed is malfunctioning.

i never ever use the take up. last night since i had 40' of blueprints i just wound it manually on the take up so there was a lot of slack. this happens with large aluminum sheets hovering on the tables. like i mentioned, i used to blame it on roller slip. but my tables are very dialed in...