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The cross contamination between the cyan and magenta could be due to a failing cap top, damper, or pump. The fact that it goes away after a soft clean points more towards a bad damper or clogged pump tube. I'd change the dampers if they are older than 2 years and flush the pump tubes to make...

Your file settings are for 300 dpi at 8 bit depth so even a file that size that is completely white would be around 315mb. No matter what you add to that file, it represents it at 300dpi even if the original image was only 72 dpi. You could significantly reduce file size if you go into the...

I'd start there just to make sure you're getting the best suction possible. If that fixes most of it but there are still some missing nozzles, remember there is a nozzle replacement function that allows you to replace that nozzle with one behind it. I believe it's up to 10 per channel but that...

I single head strike is usually recoverable but if the head slid across the vinyl back and forth for an entire print, that could definitely do damage to the nozzles. I'm also seeing cross contamination in the yellow which is a sign that either the cap top/pump isn't working 100% and/or the head...

They either got a great deal or ended up having to put a lot into it. In my experience, auction printers are almost always completely neglected and being auctioned by someone who inherited it / didn't know how to take care of it.

I was afraid of that.

That's rough with the training credits. I've learned more in the field than any training I've ever been to. Mimaki doesn't allow access to their manuals if you're not trained. Mutoh gives me everything the day it's released regardless of training etc!

If you'r flushing cleaning solution through the head with a syringe and you push into one nozzle and it comes out of the other one, the head is internally damaged. Every channel should flush through only it's path.

You need the Mutoh Service Assistant not the Engineer Assistant. unfortunately I can't post that publicly but try searching for Mutoh MSA and you might have some luck. Also, I agree with Umca. You probably either have bad cards or if no new cartridge will work, the heater junction board may be...

Nalgene makes a bottle exactly the same size as the Roland one. I can't remember where I found it but it's on the internet.

Their excuse is usually one of two things, 1. The customer is too stupid to fix their own machine so we have to protect them from themselves. And 2. The customer is too stupid not to hurt themselves so we must protect them from themselves. There is no good excuse for locking people out other...

The new Mimakis come with a 3 roll changer. I'd be interested to see your solution as I'm sure Mimaki has over-engineered it!

Similarly, sometimes it can be easier to weed small lettering by masking it before weeding, and weed from the masked vinyl.

It's probably a bad damper but I have also noticed that these older Mimakis need new ink lines more often than other models as they age. It could need new line or one of the connections is letting air in. I'd start with the damper though as that's the most likely culprit.

It's definitely just over saturating. I'd turn up the heat and try different profiles. It could be expired ink or bad media as well.

Make sure you're getting the head carriage locked before proceeding with the limit position. It's easy to think it's locked when it isn't. You need to gently push the carriage to the right until the lock clicks and then stop. If you push it all the way to the right, it will lock and then unlock...

It depends on the bulk system you use but yes, if it's an open container, air could get sucked in that way. Once you put new ink in, it should be able to fill with a little charge. If it doesn't I would suspect the station or cap top as well. It should fill even with a couple of strong...

It's probably a cap top or maintenance station issue. When a cartridge goes empty and doesn't flag the machine, no air should get in at all. If air did get in, one or more connection along the ink line is failing. The more likely case is the cap top or maintenance station aren't pulling ink...

If you know for sure that the heaters should be on and hot and they aren't, it's usually a bad thermistor or a bad heater relay board. The thermistor is what reads the temperature so the heater knows when to turn on and off. The relay board is what actually routes the power.

In my experience with Illustrator it works the other way around. Usually the new versions can open older ones but not the other way around.