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The Mimaki UCJV300 is essentially the roll to roll version of your JFX200 so that might be something to look into. It's very versatile in that it can print, cut, and print white and clear. It's within your budget on the high end. If you want to go solvent, you can't go wrong with one of the...

I took a look at the color of the gradients in Illustrator and that color at the bottom is definitely purple. 90C 84M 0Y 0K. The blue it is transitioning into only has 20M.

That's normal for this machine. Most people will flip the sponge and then replace after it gets really guncked up. You might go and clean up the dust around the area as that can cause issues but if everything is printing fine, you should be good.

It's probably a failing damper. I'd change them out especially if they are over 1 - 2 years old. Each color on a ValueJet has 2 channels so if one damper is failing, the other one sort of over powers the other.

Unless there has been an update that I don't know about, Rasterlink doesn't allow tiled print/cut jobs unfortunately. You would have to manually tile it in your design software.

The only difference between a Mutoh and Mimaki DX7 is Mimaki puts a little memory chip on the cover that contains the head rank number. So going from a Mimaki to a Mutoh is super easy but going from a Mutoh to a Mimaki requires using an old head rank chip. As far as the head themselves though...

Absolutely.

I personally know that any of the 522, 922, and LM922 series sheets will have the grain going long ways as we sell them locally. Your best bet is probably ordering from https://www.jpplus.com which is Rowmark's direct sales site.

Rowmark has 1/16" brushed silver over black and the grain runs in the 49" direction. You would have a bunch of waste though as unfortunately they only sell in quarter, half and full sheets so you would have to buy a full sheet to get a 30" piece with the grain going in the right direction. Or...

Click here to download the user manual if you don't have it yet. Then go to page 100 to do the alignment if you aren't using registration marks. Page 101 for when using registrations marks. The machine will basically print a bunch of magenta squares and then cut each one with a slightly...

You need to run the print/cut alignments. What machine model are you working with?

Double check that your offset setting for the blade is correct. It should be on the packaging for the blade itself.

Oh ok I understand now. It's probably giving you a head cable or head heat error then? Only way I know of is to get a defective head that isn't shorting out. It will satisfy the circuit requirement and override the errors.

Is the file in vector format originally or is it a bitmap? If it's vector, scaling before saving as JPG should work although I'd suggest saving as a TIFF instead. If it's bitmap to begin with and then you enlarge, it's going to look rough because no new data is being introduced. Ideally it would...

PDS knows their way around so they probably got it right. It sounds to me like there might be a pressure issue. It's just weird that it works fine once you've done the cleaning cycle. Do you get any sub tank errors or supply errors? Sometimes you might not see them because they can pop up and...

Try an air purge on the clear. Usually when there are issues with ink flow consistency it's air in the system. Also, make sure you aren't using primary filters on the clear. They should be the circular white filters not the large black cylinder style the other colors use.

If you don't want to sub out, go find a Roland SP-300v or SP-300i. It's right around your budget, 30 inches wide, and they are easy to fix. If you want to go brand new, Mimaki has a 30" CJV150 but they are phasing them out in favor of the JV100 which doesn't have a 30" option at the moment.

That's most likely a RIP problem. Make sure the RIP is set to get the media width from the printer and not overriding it with a manual size.

I agree with Impact1. Also, errors that pop up while printing but don't stop the print are almost always basic errors like an ink cartridge being near end, the heater has reached it's proper temp, or maybe all 8 cartridge slots aren't being used etc.

As stated above, humidity and temp play a big role in pint quality and consistency. It's not only that but also huge jumps in humidity or temp in short amounts of time can also cause problems as you have seen. You're most likely already out of environmental specs seeing how 40% is a spike for...