Search results

It also appears when a print head isn't plugged in or has a bad connection. No connection means it can't get a reading from the head thermistor.

You have about 5 seconds to get that all done for it to work. The sequence mentioned in this post should work on your machine.

Clean the board the 15 pin cable plugs into with alcohol. Sometimes it's just built up with ink dust and the connection is bad. Also, if you didn't change the plastic sheets that the cable is sandwiched between with the cable, make sure to clean them with alcohol as well. If the cable can't move...

Check your positive and negative pressure values and adjust if needed. Then I'd run an air purge on the clear channels. The ink supply error means the machine is not detecting ink in the sub tank after trying to fill it which could be a pressure issue or even a clogged tube. The overflow error...

If you have Illustrator you can just make your files, use the Cutting Master plug-in to add crop marks, print through Rasterlink, and then cut from Cutting Master.

I agree 100%. As soon as I saw this ink system I thought, wow, this is a step backwards. I can't be 100% on this but my theory is that they no longer use Epson heads in these machines, which means they can't use Epson's ink delivery system. You may have noticed that all Mimaki, Roland, and Mutoh...

Correct. What you want to adjust is the PC Origin Offset. Download the operation manual here, and then go to page 100. It will tell you how to adjust the print/cut without registration marks and it's called PC Origin Offset, not TP Detect.

I'd keep your policy of not messing with the reseller's art but maybe email them and let them know that black will print better using whatever CMYK values you have found print best on your printer. They could then just create a swatch with those values and add it to their swatch books. If you...

There are no adjustments to the maintenance station. As long as all the screws fit when you put it in, it's in the proper position. The one thing that tends to be out of place is actually the head. Usually it's the left side of the head being too high compared to the right because it gets caught...

When I install these printers I usually take the ink supply covers off while inking up specifically to catch any leaks as they occur instead of finding out when ink starts dripping out of the covers. The ink line connectors can be hard to tell if they've clicked closed all the way so I'm always...

You definitely want to test your "print to board stock" method before purchasing. Most Epson based, roll to roll printers have a max media thickness of 1mm. More rigid materials fare worse than flexible ones as well. Not that I think it's impossible but you definitely want to be sure your media...

It depends on your RIP but most RIPs have a layout screen where you layout your print orientation and copies etc. In that window there's usually a button to automatically get the media width from the printer. You should be able to manually type in a size as well. For example, in Flexi it's...

All the prints he does seem to be labeled as, "Digital Print On Linen" My best guess is pre-stretched canvas/linen and printed on a flatbed UV with white ink and possibly clear to add texture. UV prints tend to have an, "embossed" feel to them as well.

Sorry I was called out on a service call yesterday. Here's a screenshot of the settings I used to print the image circled in green.

I got Covid a few weeks ago and was out for about 10 days. Boss said, "stay the hell away." lol

This might raise more questions than answers but see my print out below from a CJV150. The print circled in green is your EPS file unedited and it looks a lot like your output. The print circled in blue is the original PDF from your customer, which had tons of clipping masks and weird file...

That all looks pretty standard to me. If you want to upload the file I can print it out on my CJV150 I have in the shop and see if the output is any better.

If you can, take a screenshot of your profile settings page on one of those jobs. We might be able to spot a setting out of place.

The input profile could still be different. The TIFF might be set to sRGB and the PDF might be on Adobe RGB or something like that. At the end of the day, if the TIFF prints correctly on it's own and not after linking it in the PDF, something is converting the color and that's usually going to...

I think you're on the right track. You might be designing in CMYK color mode and linking in an RGB TIFF into the file. If you don't include the profiles, it will default to the PDF color setting.