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seems like they are good enough. you can just put a permanent chip right on the side of a standard chipped cart though. that's the simplest way. with the chip sticking out like that it might get whacked.

that just doesn't make sense (to me and i gather you are a lot smarter than i am). the rip and the firmware talk to each other. your printer shouldn't be over riding what your rip says to do. i think if you fool with this you find out a way to shut those heads down. hell, you can just plug...

nooooo one's got me beat! my cnc was back in the day when you assembled them yourself, and built your own table out of WOOD. that's right. my cnc is made out of u-channel and 2x6's. hooked up to a 386 running dos. with 2 big noisy porter cable 2hp routers. actually i'm bidding mine down to...

@iSign great reply! what are you using for the poly-metal? luminore, smooth-on??? i've decided to use some poly-metal (cold casting) but haven't gotten all the samples together to compare.

mix the two out in the open somewhere. if you see any kind of particlizing of the two inks, it's a big no-no. depending on the chemical make up it will be harmless or coagulate. from ss2 to triangle jvs you don't flush. hell, from tiangle jvs to triangle biosolvent to jvs no flush. just...

also remember what's it's being used for...not only how often. if you are piercing some dibond letters, or cutting plywood, etc. just what kind of accuracy do you need? none. finer cnc's are for perfect .001 cuts, pieces fitting inside of other pieces, etc. just cut out letters? ...good no...

i have a total piece of crap antique shopbot. and it's made me a lot of money. you can get a brand new one for $18,000. if i was upgrading, i'd get on the shopbot forum and get a used one. they are very simple and will not die. if you're not going to use it constantly, go low end.

wondered why used jv4 were so expensive used. good luck, really, sounds like you've seriously got a brain teaser on your hands.

i'm confused. the jv4 has 3 heads. at least i thought it was three. seems to me you'd just choose cmyk and not choose cmyklmlc in your rip. and the printer will just ignore the third head. after all if you've got just three heads... cmykX2 impossible.

i don't know. that pdf is full of exaggerations. "change the face of fine art". is it epson yellow solvent ink that fades quicker than it should. the only face that will change is the color of prints of faces. media compatibility? hp beats it on back lit. almost matches dyes sub on...

if you had a head strike and the printer didn't get worse after the strike, you didn't get any damage from it. you are in the clear. if you are dead set on changing the head. take out the head. take off the manifold and see if it's locked up/clogged on that side. you've got nothing to lose.

robert's awesome!

a roland, mutoh, mimaki will have after market parts available forever. they are simple machines to work on. that said, my father in law works in a massive print shop. their digital department had a herd of jv3's and they ditched them for hp solvent machines. everytime i go there the hp's...

well, i had the chance to see one installed. the output is way smooth. no banding at all. you can stare at it until you get a migraine. all kinds of media.... funny thing, it bounces around. does the shimmy as it prints. no smell, cheap inks, bone dry an inch out of the machine (think of...

color specific as in the banding/starvation (whatever we want to call it) appears in all the colors? or none of the colors when doing the test.

i'd do it. i just ordered a head from solventinkonline for $835. you might be able to get the price down to $2k? or have the current owner do the head install himself so take out the risk of you doing it and it not going well. as for the general price. you can make some money at that price...

price? use/workload of the machine? model? s or sp?

after you isolate the issue, a damper swap is next. put a functioning color's dampers on the bad color's manifold. if the new functioning color's dampers do the same, it's vacuum/pump/caps. if the issue disappears at that location, it's dampers, clogged line, bulk supply filter, possibly...

did you cleaned the IR lens on the sensor?

i actually think mikepro is right. looked like the bands were all the exact width. but looking closer they are intermittent widths.