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If the machine is flagging the cartridge as empty before it's actually empty, you might need a new maintenance station. The machine only guesses at how much ink has been used so if the amount of ink it thinks it's pulling from the cartridge when doing cleanings is less than it expects, it flags...
The head hits a part of the capping station that raises it up a little so the ink makes it into the cap. It sounds weird but it's how the Mimaki printers do it as well.
Not likely. When a maintenance station fails you loose nozzles slowly and randomly over time. Whenever a head doesn't fire at all and you know ink is flowing, it's either a blown fuse or a fried head. Make sure to test the fuses disconnected from the machine. There is one on the CR board and one...
The fuser can reach 200 degrees so maybe they think you'll burn yourself? At the end of the day, manufactures have declared war on right to repair. They love to use the excuse, "The dumb end user might hurt themselves" to justify it.
RL will only allow Mimaki marks. Doesn't Multicam have an Illustrator or Corel plug-in to add marks that way? That's how most of my customers use non-Mimaki cutters with Rasterlink.
It's not the solution that will harm the heads. You just don't want to drag the swab across the head nozzles themselves because it can cause debris to be pushed up into the nozzles and clog them. If you accidentally swipe the head surface it's not the end of the world. You just don't want to go...
Most of the time the cleaning solution that came with your printer and is the same band as the ink can be used as a cleaner for the cap tops and wipers etc. and can also be used as a flush as it's directly compatible with the inks. If you go third party with the solution you usually want to make...
I'm not sure what your setup is but you most likely will need the Mimaki Driver Version 5.5(64-Bit). It should be the second one down from the top.
It sounds like the plotter might be fried. If the port works but the plotter never responds, the USB port on the cutter itself or possibly the...
Try this link. Mimaki's site gets sort of confusing because it switched between the US and Japanese servers so the same information can be in two different places.
Nozzles don't really close or open but they do become clogged. Ink will flow through a nozzle when it's idle. The back flow is pretty normal after doing a soak like that. If it clears out with a cleaning that means your cap tops and pump are probably fine.
Sometimes the septum on the cartridge...
When air leaks into the system the ink recedes back to the cartridge. In the case of a little bit of air getting in, it just impedes the flow enough to cause the drop out. It's more like when you were a kid and would close one end of the straw with your finger and pull it out of the glass of...
There is probably air getting in the system and usually it's going to be around he damper. Did you change the o-ring between the damper and ink line? If not, that's where I would start. If you did, as these machines get older the ink line starts to constrict from the pressure of the o-ring over...
Ground would probably be 3 - 4 plus 1 day lead time unfortunately. Mutoh doesn't ship same day anymore. Upgrading to a guaranteed 2 or 3 day probably wouldn't be too expensive.
I've seen it happen before. The chip readers will be the cheaper part to change but it's very possible you change them and it ends up being the junction board which is about $400 if I remember off the top.
If the cartridges are black, they won't work in your machine. Your 3rd party ones should still work though. If they don't then you're heater junction board it probably fried. It sounds unrelated but it's the board that decodes the ink cards.
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