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You don't have to downgrade if you have the memory board from your old head. Unfortunately I cannot give out Mimaki firmware due to an NDA.

No the dampers themselves. You're putting black ink through the cyan channel and cyan through the black channel.

The print head in that link is not an original Mimaki head as you can see from the picture, it doesn't have the Mimaki head memory board attached. It will work in your machine but depending on how old the machine is and the firmware, it may require a short procedure to transfer the memory board...

In this case I usually do a damper swap. So basically put the black damper in the cyan spot and the cyan in the black spot. Run a cleaning and then a nozzle check. If the cyan can print in the black channel but the black won't print in the cyan channel, the head is probably damaged internally or...

If the rendering intents in your RIP are set differently for vector/bitmap and your background is a vector box, that's probably the issue. Most programs create gradients as raster effects so they are technically bitmap on top of vector which confuses the render. If you set the rendering intents...

Check the head manifold for any damage around the cyan channel. They break pretty easily. Luckily they are replaceable without having to buy a head if that's the case. Do you see ink in the line or are there air bubbles?

The main difference between the two is the VP has 4, DX4 heads and the SP has 2, DX4 heads. The VP is faster for that reason. Otherwise, they are basically the same machine,

Try doing some head soaks if you haven't already. There is a function in the Maintenance menu called, "Nozzle Wash." Run that and follow the instructions. It will basically have you clean the wiper and cap top, then fill the cap tops with the cleaning solution your ink provider recommends, and...

I agree. That's not a nozzle check issue. That's an inkcicle hanging off the head issue.

If inks flowing and the fuses are good for sure, the only thing left really is the head itself. Do you have an old head that still fires but is just clogged or something you can use to test it out? Also make sure that you check both the fuse on the main board and the CR board.

Normally when you go to change the port in Flexi they will show up as USB_PRINTER_0 and USB_PRINTER_1 to differentiate. The printers have to be on and connected to show up. That's how it is with every printer I've ever installed anyway and I install all types of brands and models. I have not...

Go to this link and then click on the link that describes your machine model, ink type, and color configuration. Then select Arlon as the manufacturer and the SLX profiles should be near the end of the list.

Call Mimaki. They are down there in SoCal. If one of their techs doesn't want to moonlight they can probably recommend someone,

If ink is flowing for sure and the head still doesn't print, you have a blown fuse or head. The station worked for the poster because his was bad before he changed the head and didn't know it. When he put the new head in, it failed to fill. So when he put in the new station, it got ink flowing...

They definitely don't make them anymore but they are still on the support list so parts should still be available at least.

Double check your material to make sure it doesn't have air egress / air release. You don't want to use application spray on that style of vinyl.

Mechanical resolution is simply how much the motor moves per step. The smaller the number, the higher resolution you get. Extreme low resolution will give you stair stepped curves and high gives you smooth curves. That being said, you couldn't tell the difference between most modern machines...

Grease on the encoder will definitely cause this issue. Sounds like the tech might have used a little too much!

You can buy them directly from Roland at RolandDGA.com

I've never run into that. Maybe try running it in administrator mode and compatibility mode in an older version of Windows? Those settings tend to be setup at installation and forgotten about if they had to be used in the first place. It's a shot in the dark so hope it helps.