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this may be kind of up my ally in that my jv3 is converted to a flatbed. if you are talking about the black rubber thing that the media sensor "sees". i've put a strip of white tape inside of mine so that i get a maximum read on width. no matter if i'm printing 10" or 64" the printer always...

i'd first see if i could isolate the issue to a particular head. put together a file that is a block of black, cyan, magenta, etc. then print (maybe 6x6's). looks to me that it's your black head or magenta. if so, it does look like a data issue. after that you'll be stuck with a mandatory...

check to make sure you pump is properly hooked up to the cap tubes. not sure exactly how your printer is laid out (one pump for all heads, etc?). or also make sure the inner pump tube isn't broken. do you see any ink on the gears of the pump?

when you pull at the other side of the capping station, do you get resistance or does the syringe just pull air? things to check. pump tube disconnected? clogged pump? bad contact with head?

i'd expect to have to do some fit and finish if the printer was hastily assembled. printer function on a specific requirements for the vacuum to work, for the ink to run so slightly downhill into the head, etc. all the right parts may be there. hell, the capping stations and stuff that i use...

@skyhigh as far as that kind of etching goes (prepping). i use denatured alcohol or acetone. but it's really more how it's applied than which is better. a certain amount of exposure and removal is necessary in order to prevent condensation on the substrate. if done right, the dyne will be...

this may not apply (does with mimaki). you can enter negative values. many firmwares have a minimum margin after measuring. but a negative value can eliminate that. btw. i am totally jealous of your printer. i could do so much with a rig like that. it's on my wish list.

!!! for forty hours you could do a detailed 3D illustration. the nice thing about 3D is when finished you get virtually thousands of "2d" images. and you can set the camera at angles for rendering that are impossible for a human to take (like you'd practically have to be inside the pavement or...

@skyhigh xylene etches aluminum?

$3k is about right. when you get that thing laid out, you'll see just how much material and engineering is required to go up to 800 square feet. i'm putting up a 37x45 quanset hut style tent in my backyard and it weighs over 3000lbs.!

try luminous-landscape.com for this kind of thread. paper is literally all they talk about. (under the Printer, papers, and inks section)

do a test. pour some HS ink on a piece of aluminum foil. mix a small amount of homemade solution. does the ink mix fluidly? no particlization, coagulation... ??? carbitol is some really cool stuff. most industrial sherwin williams locations carry it.

i'd do a data swap to see if you can get the issue to stay or move away from the head.

get down low with a flash light. push the carriage off to the left a bit (speaking of jv3) or slide the carriage off to the far left (if there's a cleaning area...still speaking of jv3).

after the head soak, when you pull the plug, bring the carriage off to the left for a moment. pulling the plug and walking off can or will empty your carts. the test print looks bad enough that some of what you are seeing is banding from clogged heads. too many nozzles in a zone can cause a...

not familiar with the 540i test print. does it make two passes? because the missing nozzles on the top and bottom are identical patterns. one thing to note... when getting a concentrated "halo" of missing nozzles (and the missing area doesn't move around), that is sometimes a sign of a...

i would not get alcohol near that printer. it evaporates too quickly thus causing condensation. condensation (H2O) can coagulate your ink and lock up your head. stick to factory cleaning solution or mix butyl carbitol 5 parts with one part acetone for a homemade cleaning solution.

well, i had to abort yesterday. i had the idea that maybe the manifolds were also dirty. the manifolds were actually locked up (i think two or three were flowing). which explains the reason they just won't budge. the heads are superglued with ink. after three days of soaking and maybe 20...

it was hand done. look at the bottom of the c and bottom of the k. they have a different bevel. couldn't take more than a few minutes to do this.

you mean dibond? i use allied plastics is a great supplier in northwest houston. they also have some kind of generic that is good for far away applications (dibond is too beautiful and expensive to use on something that isn't eye level. since i started using allied, i've quit using them...