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fill it with butyl carbitol. it's a glycol ether (also found in your ink, and cleaning solution). extremely slow drying, very very mildly solvent effect too.

i went with refillable carts and endless chips... the "poor man's bulk ink set up".

and you did a data swap at the slider board to determine that the new black head didn't blow? a long black stripe is usually a blown head or loose data ribbon, also you must check inside the data port on the head for ink.

you can "build" your own... but the idea behind both these saws is that the blade spins upward/backward. thus pinching the material between the guide and the blade. there is no fray or splintering at all. also the zero measurement is a real time saver. you can mark your cut with a tiny fine...

the "walking" is probably your encoder strip your your encoder reader. just a tiny speck of ink somewhere will cause it to drift strangely. i had some on mine and had to very carefully yet, aggressively remove them with a q-tip and acetone (quickly rubbing off the solvent right after applying...

if you want butter smooth cuts and more accuracy than you'll ever need: festool ts75 or dewalt dws520k. you can use these tools to cut everything from rice paper to 1" acrylic. i cut veneer, aluminum, plywood (several sheets at a time), dibond, and petg. and i have the 11' track! panel...

thanks!

need to do some more work for this client but am working with their old logo which i didn't design.

i do tons of virtual installs... one very important thing mentioned earlier is to transform the image plumb in photoshop first. as far as a technique. mine is probably wrong but easy. i draw a selection over the know object. that object's dims will show up in the info window. go to image...

...it's almost a historic conversation... there was a day that you couldn't just go get plywood and beams at the local hardware store. ... there was a day that i paid a company a grand a month to have part cut on a $1,000,000 cnc machine. i later bought a used shopbot for $4k and saw that in...

do you have the service manual? search signs101 under "jv33 bible".

yes standard grade is awful. i've tried putting a deck sealant in a pinch on some material (the back of the material in that the front had aluminum mounted to it. what is happening is one expanding (the side exposed to moisture), thus making both sides "different sizes" enough to warp the...

@gino i personally know the foreman of the shop that does all of walmart's graphics (my girlfriend's dad)...done on some version of the scitex turbjet. they do all the outdoor signs, trucks, everything. what's so wrong about print speed/production being an after thought? we aren't...

i saw one that needed heads on ebay. it sat there for almost a year unsold for $5995.00.

i'd use the butyl cellosolve or better butyl carbitol (straight, no acetone). both the the solvent ink and the aqueous ink have a butyl cellosolve (glycol ether base). ...water is a solvent and the ketones in "solvent ink" are... a solvent. but the great thing is that they have this one...

not necessarily, after a data swap that disproves that the head is causing the issue. ask yourself a couple more questions. are the cables being swapped at that slider board port okay. look at the ends to see if there are any bent over wires. rotate the ribbons being used in the data swap...

i ordered a bunch of the silicone "pump" tube. don't remember exactly which one. measured what i had with a caliper and went with that. got a ton for cheap.

the data cables are actually a higher grade, dampers same, hoses (get those off of smallparts.com for half the price i've seen anywhere else), manifolds no different. the only thing i got that was subpar was a pump. just didn't seem to pull that well.

50% down, after an approved design is signed off on. net 30 days. if you can't afford to wait 30 days, you can have your invoice factored. anything less tells the client, they picked a company that is in dire straits and can afford to keep the doors open. not to be offended by the comment...

....to start, when it says "load cleaning tool...(or whatever your firmware specifies)..." just take out the cart and carefully take off the chip. i've never seen a cleaning cart with a chip. i've seen blanks put in that spot, but i've also used cleaning carts with open spots... no...