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there may be some parameter like settings that can get you there. ...do your carts have chips? (i don't think they do). either way, if they do, just take off the chips and your printer will think they are cleaning carts.... just unhook your pump tubes and let the printer click away...

nothing's tapping the inner hull? or possibly is the belt is half on the pulley?

it wicked away into your drain bottle? was the remaining ink on the ground from overflowing? there are a couple scenarios that can cause wicking. ...say if you are doing something to your carriage...maybe a cap fill. under the right conditions a fluid connection between the bottom of the...

i liked the valves above the dampers. but in the end i didn't really get what i was going for with the printer. i really needed much more flexibility for what i do with the printer. i attached the most recent mod that i did to the printer. i really like it. i can do a "custody wash" of the...

also...just downloaded google sketchup. i had some old 3d files that an employee did for me designing a new workspace. google sketchup is free and form what i can tell is pretty decent for free. and simple too. here's some examples of the work that was done on sketchup (this is after being...

it's a retarder. you should be able to find it most anywhere that carries CAB lacquers for finishing cabinets. butyl cellosolve is the most common for slowing down the evaporation rate of lacquers. but sometimes in very hot dry conditions, the cellosolve has to be used at such a ratio that...

thanks... it's 1/4" reverse painted acrylic. there are two main base sections (a vertical diptych) and then the top pieces were installed on top at the site. i watched some youtube videos... there were side by side examples of the same object being built with in both 3ds max and rhino...

it would be great thing to try. butyl carbitol has an extremely mild solvent effect on the ink... mild as in it takes a while to melt it but does really get between the molecules when does. if you were to pour a small puddle on a table, that little puddle will be there for days (or weeks?)...

rhino

well i just got plunged into 3D this weekend. a client came up that asked if i did outdoor sculpture. of course i lied and said "SURE!" then rushed off to learn how to do 3d graphics. at first i was doing a lot of cussing and had some four hours dead spots where i simply could not figure out...

remember the pixation " wirejet/painting machine".... that was pretty cool too. still wish i picked up one of those.

but the final results of swapping the yellow dampers (line and damper in tact, just crossing) was what? did the issue remain at the same manifold nipple or move to the other nipple?

oh i have a viscosity scale... i use it mostly when i'm doing shear stress tests on my tap water.

the carbitol is available at many sherwin williams part number (most major cities will have a sherwin williams industrial locatoin): R6 K 28 (butyl carbitol or... diethylene glycol mono butyl ether)

outrageous. these printers are like cars. you don't take your car to the shop and say...."it's running bad" and then they just start putting in alternators and water pumps and distributors. they diagnose and then fix.

everyone knows the future is programmable graphics. this is about 10 years too late. that said, it took some really smart dudes to get this thing to work.

typo? in your first post, it said that half of your yellow on the right side was dropping out. in the latest reply it says (which previously worked fine). when doing a damper swap, you do not take any dampers off. leave the dampers in place and cross the lines. is that what you did...

most likely it's the inline filter on your bulk ink line. before i go blaming the filter, swap your two yellow damper positions (7 then 8 becomes 8 then seven at the manifold) to see if you can get the issue to move to the other side of the head.

welcome... (i'm an hour south of you in the lake jackson/freeport area)

go to an office depot buy a black cartridge of epson water based ink. fill the caps (clamping the pump lines) with black ink.. the ink should wick up into the head. do a test print. if you want to prove that the electronics are firing at the heads, etc. you certainly don't need carts or...