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Your machine is a little hard to work on due to the size. As long as you take your time, work with the machine unplugged and discharged, and make sure all the cable get plugged in nice and straight, there isn't much damage you can do. If you have worked on other electronics before this won't...

I have them in stock here in Denver. It's up to you if you want to install yourself. Most of my customers are. We offer free tech support over the phone as well.

The fuse is located in the image below circled in green. Head heat errors mean the head circuit is shorting out. Check all of your cables and connections to make sure they are perfect. Even a slightly crooked cable can cause this issue.

It's probably the head. You could try replacing the head cables to see if that helps at all but in my experience when it fires erratically like that, it's a damaged head. We usually see 3 to 5 years out of a typical head although I've seen them go as long as 13 years!

It's up to you and your confidence in your soldering skills. For some people that's something they do everyday and for some it's a big task. At the end of the day on that machine, if a head isn't firing, it's either the fuse or transistor is blown on the main board, the head is blown, or the...

While I agree for the most part, we do recommend trying to flush manually if it's your last resort and you are already going to buy a new head. Might as well try!

The way I do it on a 1614 is one connection at a time. So starting from the left damper I will disconnect the first connection, remove the old o-ring, install a new o-ring, and then connect it to the new damper. Then do the next connection and the next all the way through all 8. Doing it this...

If you pulled on with a syringe from the cap top tube and it pulled really hard but no ink came out, the cap top is probably clogged. I would fill the cap with cleaning solution, let it sit for about 15 minutes, and then try to pull it through with the syringe again. You can also feel around the...

If this is something that happened out of the blue, it looks like a damaged head to me. Have you had any head strikes recently? How old is the head?

I don't have one in the shop to print right now. If you print the drop position correction pattern and none of the patterns match no matter how far left or right you go, you need to run the service mode drop position to zero out the user one.

I agree with above. If the fuses test good and there is ink flowing during cleanings, the heads are probably fried. That being said, you should test the fuses off the board to get the best results. I have run into it many times where the customer said the fuses were fine but then tested them...

Ask your supplier about Oracal 3641. It's a down and dirty 4 year vinyl that a lot of realtor sign makers use.

My first job in the industry included recreating low res logos in vector and digitizing art work for commercial Solo cup boxes. We charged $65 per hour and that was around 2005.

Power the machine on while holding the left and right arrow keys. Once it boots up it will be in System Parameter mode. Hit the end key to exit system parameters. Then scroll down through the menu until you find, Cut System Parameters, and hit enter. Then scroll down through the parameters until...

You need to run the drop position correction alignments. Each print mode has it's own alignment so one can be good and the other can be off.

What's the model?

Is there a reason you're not just bringing it directly into production manager?

You can test the power supply if you know how to use a voltmeter. In my experience it's usually the main board though.

No documentation that I know of but CutContour and PerfCutContour are somewhat universal between brands so Flexi has it built into the software. Other machine will add spot colors based on the band. Mimaki for example uses CutContourCut1 - Cut3 to pick different presets on the machine itself but...