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Graphtec's official specs for their current models is a max of 164 feet but they only guarantee perfect accuracy up to 6.5 - 50 feet depending on the model.

Try air dusting the board to make sure it's not just super dusty and causing heating issues. That might do the trick. Otherwise here is a link to the board on our site.

Flexi recognizes certain spot colors as different cut lines such as the CutContour spot color for kiss cutting. I took a look over the instructions you provided and it looks like they are just putting the perf cut line into another layer but not assigning a spot color to it. Since it's only in...

It's either that or the power supply and I've never seen a power supply fail on a ValueJet.

It's most likely a fried main board. You can try unplugging the head cables and then try powering on to see if the head is maybe shorting out and causing the board to reset but other than that it's usually going to be the board itself.

By going back to the initial PF menu, you actually reset the calibration. You just want to confirm the confirmation print and that will set the calibration. If you print the initial adjustment print again, it resets. Use the print size compensation feature in the RIP. It won't affect the PF...

Here is a little maintenance kit we put together for that machine. If you put in the notes at checkout that you came from signs101, I'll throw in the wiper scraper that we don't normally include. I agree with balstestrat. Before changing the head, replace the maintenance parts first and see if...

The print feed calibration can change throughout a roll due to the weight difference between a new roll land almost empty roll. The fact that you got a scan motor error could mean the encoder strip or sensor is dirty as well. Failing dampers would also cause intermittent banding. Sounds like it...

Totally agree. While I can still get the heads from Mutoh, if it were me, I wouldn't put too much time and money into it. The oldest machine I suggest for beginners on a budget is the Roland SP300(V/i), Mimaki JV33/CJV30, or a ValueJet 1204. The FJ52 is older than all of those.

If you just broke the manifold, you can replace that for $29.99 and be on your way! Here's a link. Also, I won't sugar coat it about the price, our techs are better. Not only do we work in the field, we get trained by Mimaki and Mutoh on most new machines so we're always up to date. Digiprint...

Oh crap I didn't study.

You most likely popped the head fuse. If you work on the machine without unplugging it and waiting 15 minutes, there is residual charge so when you take the head cable out it shorts and blows the fuse. That or the cable was plugged in crooked and that caused the short. The fuse is on the main...

What are the errors?

Cut the corners off the leading edge so that it makes a large triangle shape. Then just tape the tip of the triangle to the take up. Works like a charm.

What you're asking is a Federal crime in the US that could end up in prison time. Not sure if you'll find someone willing to take that risk.

The rule of thumb is as hot as possible without buckling so it's sort of trial and error. In general I am in the mid 30's for pre and platen and 50 for post. Post can be high because it doesn't really affect the vinyl during the print.

13 years on a head is like winning the lottery, although I'm sure it comes down to your meticulous maintenance. You should be proud! Dampers rarely clog but they do wear out and just stop pulling ink to the head efficiently. Mutoh recommends replacing them once per year but most people go until...

I've moved countless printers in covered trailers through the years. -Keep it on the stand -Put a couple 2x4 under the stand so the castors are lifted up off the floor. They can pop off easily if not! -Put the head lock on. It's' yellow piece of metal that screws into the Y bar. If you don't...

One thing I always do is clean the clear plastic guide strips with a rag and alcohol. The ink dust tends to build up over time which is sticky and it prevents them from sliding easily. This would also cause the slapping.

If you're within .4mm and you're having quality issues, something else has to be happening. I've seen customers move a machine to a different building and not level it and it still prints great. What's your symptoms?