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i tossed the height adjustment bar and damper bar and head cover. (also, i'd suggest you switch to the super long mutoh ribbons) way more access to the dampers. it's a bird's nest otherwise.) theoretically every height has a bi-directional calibration. maybe the test patterns are so...

there's a protocol for that... i'm guessing here. so i'd confirm this (DOUBLE CHECK!). but i think you are supposed to unplug all your data cables (don't let them touch) and turn on your machine??? thusly if your machine boots up but gives you a head error, you know that the board is good...

this video makes the perfect argument for "not" letting it be.

this is really an ink supply 101 issue. there are numerous discussions on the board about damper swaps. they discuss the ability to isolate the lack of ink being cause by a vacuum issue below the head or a supply issue above. considering you left your printer off for a while, i'd first flush...

+1 on the red glitter. if it's sticky enough. . if you have a dehumidifier i'd add that to the mix. the dryer the air the better unless you are using a moisture cure urethane.

what did it crash into? paper or metal or vinyl? if paper there have been reports of the fibers being jammed into the print head.

did you follow the pdf instructions exactly? ... through both sets of drivers? the instructions are crappy and seem to say to do the same thing twice. but there are two different drivers that both need to be installed in succession.

used to do film positives with my fj50. i'd run the prints at the highest resolution with a double print (overprint). helps to slow the head carriage speed way down. you need to get a maximum dry time between passes. but of course that was water based on film. your best bet for quick drying...

get a flash light and look at the bottom of your heads. i predict that you can see some visible damage to the heads.

the best way to diagnose/isolate a data issue is with a data swap (sapping ribbon positions). i know how to do it on my printer. but each printer is specific. maybe someone can lead you through it for your model. if you do it wrong you can damage parts. essentially it will tell you if that...

no ink as in zero? when you do a cleaning cycle, is there new latent black ink in the capping station?

couldn't you run cmyk ss and just don't choose the wihite in the rip. put to refillable carts with cleaning solution in them with permanent white chips.

the negative pressure is usually because of clogged line or bad cart (collapsed end seal or something). get a refillable cart, fill it with acetone or cleaning solution. pull and push the solvent back and forth between the syringe (damper off) and cart. you'll hear bubbles each time you...

yeah. pull directly from the bottom of the damper. if it stays caved in over a minute, that is a bad sign. also, as far as suspect carts, i'd swap cyan carts and see if the issue switches to the other cyan line. or for that matter swap cyan damper positions and see if the issue jumps to the...

half a head is suspect. i'd pull some ink from each damper and see if there is a difference in resistance first (take note if the dampers relax after vacuum or stay concave. concave means you have too much negative pressure in the line. the lines have slight positive pressure). after that...

well thermal printers "boil" the ink and thus go the term "bubblejet". i'd imagine it has something to do with the chemistry. you can basically print just about any ink from any head. but the print might not look that good.

that is a bad sign. you are having data issues. either from a loose data cable. but more possibly a blown head. i'd give you some pointers about a data swap that would diagnose if it is your slider board or head. but, i don't think i want blood on my hands if you do the swap wrong and fry...

if i were attempting to install a heating system under the platen for cheap, i'd look into the heat strips used for fabbing acrylic. http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=169

most msds sheets describing the contents of water based cleaning solution simply comes to water and a little surfactant (soap). the best household soap to use when making a home brew water based cleaning solution is hoover hard floor cleaner. it is a soap that does not make bubbles. it's...

the only problem with rolands is they break down so seldom, they don't allow you get much maintenance experience.