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yo yo mpro! PURPLE PRINTERS RULE!

does this model have media clips at both sides of the platen like the mimaki, etc? if not, you can take a large rectangular razor and some aluminum tape (other tapes even double sided work, but i prefer the aluminum because it sticks well and doesn't stretch like most tape) and create a make...

they do look great. the raster side is still laying down more black, you can see it in the background and in the roots of the hair, thus neutralizing some browns and cool grays. i've been buried and not had the chance to look at all the tutorials. don't be surprised if you get a pm from me...

or just control "j" to duplicate a layer, or a selected portion to a fresh layer. always lines up to the pixel.

the reviews i've read comparing the hp latex with the sepiax ink shows that the hp is obsolete right now.

if standard soaks don't do it, pull the head and manually clean the head. it might be recoverable.... if not chinese suppliers are selling these heads for $545, so it's not the end of the world if it never comes back.. but i bet it will.

if you've done that much soaking and you've cleaned your wiper... you probably have an issue that doesn't involve your wiper because you should at least see some marked improvement after the soak regardless of the wiper's age. if it were me, i'd pull the head and clean it manually with better...

maybe ink leak or data ribbon loose that is data/electrical i'd first turn off the machine as a precaution to make sure you haven't sprung and ink leak at the head or slider board.... just a precaution, but if it is that 10% possibility, than you are risking major damage. after you are sure...

here's a jv5 print head change tutorial... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFp8e0LbIYg and a dx4 for that matter... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WbvnYg7F1w

cleaning solution 80% butyl cellosolve, 20% acetone. you can play with the blend past 50/50 if you need to do some cutting of heavy ink. such as around the doghouse and around the print heads.

data swap that entire model range is subject to latent static charge. i've seen those printers act horrible for a long time showing all kinds of "bad head" issues. then be fixed by a simple protocol. ...turn the printer off from the front, turn it off from the back, unplug it, then press the...

the cleaning solution is made of glycol ether (butyl cellosolve) and acetone. it's considered very very mild (the acetone is only about 15%). i'd just use xylol. it evaporates really slow and will cut the ink.

first cat litter for soaking up. then a mild solvent.... use some acetone, it is the mildest and quickest to evaporate. if it's too aggressive, use xylol.

those syringes have buna seals in them. they are "solvent" resistant. meaning they can resist the solvent for limited exposure. there are many web pages with charts dedicated to different polymers and there solvent resistance. http://www.industrialspec.com/downloads/Chemical_Comp.pdf...

yeah that look like it will come out.

HA!

looking very cool... the only thing that jumps out at me is the spacing. maybe if the "and" was straight across you could tie the negative space in the F and A? you got the top and bottom of the F and A long and straight. i think the "and" should keep that motif. ...classic antique motor...

i'm in the fine art market... if you are an advanced graphic artist, you can do high end indoor installs for offices, hospitals, restaurants. you'll need to have a portfolio dropped of at some local art consulting firms.

the reason i brought up the lm lc in particular is that my jv3 160sp was doing the same thing. same color shifts... then i took it out of CMYLlmlc mode and into CMYK in the rip. and with that single click, the colors were perfect. i figured there was a possibility that the canned profile he...

very cool... i've got a lot of flat roof that could be of some use. i'm jealous!