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take a photo of the way that it is wrinkling.... it can be a number of causes.

close off the pump lines below the head. fill the cap with cleaning solution and repark the heads over the caps. are you sure that you are getting vacuum at the cap? inspect for ink on the gears (failed pump tube). disconnected pump line. clogged pump. complete loss of black is rarely a...

valves with t fittings above and below this is a similar set up: lengthened lines with valves and t's hanging permanently out of the machine. allows holding the cleaning fluid without realeasing it into the pump. also a valve with a t-fitting above and below lets you pull vacuum/ink into...

orange blue and red are all midtones. you could push the white behind the halftones way way further out for better contrast if you are sold on the colors. before finishing a design like this squint your eyes and consider that this van will be speeding down the highway. and maybe do the "store...

check for cap tub falling off, pump tube fell off the pump inlet, clogged pump tube, failed pump tube (ink on the gears). is there ink in the capping station after each clean cycle?

when you are doing the cleaning is there a normal sized pool of ink left in the cap? when you just get nothing suddenly it can be stuff like... a vacuum tube fell off the bottom of the cap, a badly clogged pump tube to that cap, a kink in the pump tube (which is unlikely unless you were...

first to diagnose the issue, ind in your rip where you can choose only CMYK without lm lc running. if your prints suddenly come out perfect, you know that is the problem to be fixed.

if the springs have weakenened, just take them off and cut about an 1/4-18" off and rebend the end and install. that said, you can go down the platen and "audit" the springs to see if you've got similar pressure all the way across. i print on giant sheets of heavy aluminum and i've never...

also, after turning off the machine from the front, and switching off from the back, unplug the machine and press the front panel button four times slowly. it will usually light up about one or two times. this eliminates all the latent static charge in the printer. some of those capacitors...

build a jig the size of the bible, get a set of letters, bolt a tire jack upside down to a beam on a wall at the floor in your workshop and use the tire jack as a press.

you can turn the heat way up for the poly carb and it will stick really well. the only problem is solvent ink goes on really thinly and has a tension to it. when you are laying down the white, it is allowing for that tension to break. i've noticed this when printing on veneer. the ink can...

yup, it's the lm lc laying down incorrectly.

are you running CMYKlmlc? are for instance your greens printing too blue or your oranges too red? if that is the case, you lm lc are not profiled correctly and putting down too much additional ink. if you can (rasterlink has this option), just choose cmyk (without the lm lc heads printing in...

can you get in a little closer or cut out a piece and scan it? it's a bit hard to tell... is it doing some kind of "crackle finish" (like the craft paints where the white is designed to shrink and not entirely stick whilst shrinking, thus drying in a cracked form)? is it taking the color with...

there is one odd form of banding that is caused by the directional laying down of dots. thus the magenta one are laying on top of the black going left, then vice versa going right. it causes metamerism at certain angles. have you tried running unidirectional to see if you can eliminate this...

using color range i still think that a straight threshold never gives you the controllable highlights that going back and forth between color range and burning and dodging. this isn't that great, but it illustrates the difference from the threshold.

here's a helpful youtube of a rebuild... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrKUsYMXjdQ

midpoints/thresholds.... take the image and grayscale it, after that you can do color range and play with the mid point, it will give you a more relaxed shadow line. from there, do a paint daub, then a threshold furthering selecting the shadow line. that is the best way to find mid points...

taper the outside border (left) of his face allowing negative space to enter the cheek area and forehead line. it will give the vector a sense of having a highlight. it's too bold and of one single width. and the brow line is too low. even if you traced it vector, it doesn't allow the shadow...

to just rule out a bad damper, just steal a magenta damper and switch it with the black. you can also manually fill your damper with cleaning solution and put in on the head adapter. slightly better set up.