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i just switched days ago to triangle from ss2. and loving it already. you can set this up easy enough, but currently i'm designing a full on cleaning system. something much more exotic (cleaning solution manifold, 3 way valves, damper plugs in the front of the head carriage, temporary color...

better than that, you will be able to print to more substrates than solvent. like acrylic, aluminum, polyester, and polypropylene!!! keep us posted guinea pig!

seems that this line of printers has latent static issues. i've helped a couple of people get there sp's and vp's going and it was many times static charge. in the future, to completely disperse of all static charge in the machine do this in this order. you won't need to leave the machine off...

seems that this line of printers has latent static issues. i've helped a couple of people get there sp's and vp's going and it was many times static charge. in the future, to completely disperse of all static charge in the machine do this in this order. you won't need to leave the machine...

latent static charge seems that this line of printers has latent static issues. i've helped a couple of people get there sp's and vp's going and it was many times static charge. in the future, to completely disperse of all static charge in the machine do this in this order. you won't need to...

hey bob, my answer was "dubious and esoteric" because i'm not going to be around all day. and this guy need to get more than just step 1 (which i said was clean your caps). and damper swaps are the first thing you do when diagnosing an ink issue. it splits the machine in two. isolating the...

hell if i know!!!! just kidding. whatever mods you do, i'd recreate the effect before installing. such as you could get a minijet (a small paint sprayer) and mist ink onto some different substrates, then hovering halogens judging distance and feed and such to see how the ink behaves. or...

as far as doing damper swaps, it doesn't mechanically hurt anything. the ink mixing is minimal in that it is just the interior plumbing of the print head and the bottom milliliters of the damper. it's an isolation technique (damper swaps, data ribbon swaps, pump tube swaps)...remember the ink...

i'm just an artist so i don't have the profiling demands of a sign maker. i've also been painting with metallics for about 20 years so i have a good eye for it. one thing you can do is run a gray background (i even use a scan of brushed metal sometimes) in photoshop. adjust your gray...

just went to the mimaki, new thread, and the attachment option worked for me. maybe it was temporary? so it is dropping out like ink starvation on the left and looking uncallibrated? have you moved your printer lately? is the carriage possibly going uphill towards the capping station? do...

that's tricky. syphons only need a small amount of positive pressure inside the line to work. think of it as a train made of fluid. and it is running down hill pulling the shorter side or it's tail over a hill. if the ratio between the yellow and cyan was high at the cartridge, it might be...

that's a tricky one. i've seen it after a printer sits too long doing a cap-soak. but your case is different. if it keeps appearing over and over, not purging and being done with it, there's only two possiblities: 1) that your cap/line is clogged a bit and holding too much ink and the cyan...