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please respond to this question. did you do the damper swap to prove if it is an ink supply issue or a vacuum issue. this is not hard to diagnose and fix. usually cost a few dollars to nothing. but you have to isolate the issue.

my two cents... i prefer if the image registration isn't crucial to just print the white. let it fully dry and then print the color. some colors can be affected by the amount of solvent and condense a bit..take on a bit of a milky tinge because the white would have rather dried longer...

with what machine? jv3 160sp can do before color pass simulataneously, after color pass simultaneously, or only (allowing for a later registered pass). also, if you print the white alone. you can send the second pass as rgb.

i've got two that i was going to put in an fj50. but we later moth balled it to use a mimaki instead. was going to put them on ebay. brand new. never been plugged in.

so you did the damper swap. AND the magenta head did nothing. but the new magenta line printed magenta? AND you looked in the capping station and there's no latent magenta pooling in the cap (do you mean there's no magenta in the cap while the magenta line is properly fitted to the magenta...

i've got cheap $8 plastic roland empties for my mimaki. if you think you might have waterbased solution in your head, you can mock up a syringe with a damper at the end also. the butyl cellosolve is just a carrier/purging/cleaning mechanism. you can go wrong by doing the solution first in the...

definitely "brewing" can't be in the middle banner. and the wheat thingys are covered up. berwick in the middle or top. brewing co. on the bottom. pride of the valley, i'd lose that all together. or smash it really small with dates and other little decorative lettered arcs.

you'll need to sand with a machine...an orbital polisher for sanding with 3M Hookit II "finishing film discs" you'll need 400 grit. to finish it you'll need 600-1500 and trizact foam discs, 1-3 compounds, and preferably a good polisher (...cyclo polisher, awesome piece of equipment!). or...

that's classic ink starvation. it can be caused by issue above and below the print head. first do a damper/ink line swap (observe to see that the ink level in that damper is holding). if the issue stays as the magenta head, then you have a cap/pump/vacuum issue (by the way, is there the usual...

no offense, this is a requested critique, but it is a mess. you are definitely a good at graphics. you just need to get away from the expanded borders. and the wallpaper print in the background is too small to make a difference. look up some art nouveau graphics. i think that is what you...

does it look like the gold leaf is clear coated? if so, you'll have to sand and re-clear. when you hit a two part alphatic with a proper solvent, it doesn't "melt" like an aromatic lacquer, it wrinkles up and makes a horrible mess. and anywhere that the solvent drip to it will ruin. so if...

those lines look very clean. no problem there. maybe i didn't quite read correctly. if you have a brand new head (out of the box). definitely run (manually or all the way through the printer) some solvent cleaning solution. there's no way to guarantee that you don't have aqueous cleaning...

the cleaning solution is for brand new heads. the heads are tested out by the manufacturer with a waterbased ink. the cleaning solution (mostly ethylene glycol) is both compatible with water and solvents. so it can purge out the water based ink with out coagulating. if the prints heads have...

as stated before, i don't do vynil, etc. but i've got a lot of experience in coating sets and adhesion tests with my own product. delamination (curling up at the edges) is always caused by shrinkage. think of the laminated surface like a drum head. it in itself, has a certain stretch. when...

hover over those techs and ask lots of dumb questions! also, techs can be famous for throwing parts at machines without diagnosing. if he says "let's change these dampers" without even isolating the issue, he probably just got his cert' and really doesn't know much.

tell me about it. definitely a little european mad scientist going on there. i think i might call graphics one or whatever the supplier is and ask for a small sample of the ink. you can just put the ink in a mini-jet and do testing. no need to convert an entire machine.

any time you get delamination at the corner (predominantly) that is caused by shrinking. describe the type of peeling in more detail.

also, send a very large focused photo (scan is better) of the issue!

large-format-printers.org has a comprehensive review of the ink coming out "this summer". so for $100 i'm going to just wait and get that data sheet so see what this ink can do without having customers come back and tell me, etc...

it's most likely a data issue. when a printer prints those bars of color it points to a short in the head spontaneously giving itself permission to just "print ink!". i had a loose data cable and caused my printer to do this. http://www.flickr.com/photos/alldredge/4569961164/ due to the head...