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better yet, switch cyan with magenta maybe? yellow is a bit hard to see in detail when printed alone.

yes, cross the lines. the cyan needs to be isolated. the only way to do this is to put the cyan lines on a different head and vice versa. changing out the dampers before doing this will hinder your diagnosis because you will lose your "control" of scientific method. for double cmyk, run...

do the damper swap. it will open up a huge set of possibilities or impossibilities. if that issue moves to a new head. than you will know that it's not the slant. because the slant on the new head position for cyan is fine. damper swaps are the first and best diagnostic protocol for...

filling dampers.... you have to tilt the damper backwards. so as the ink flows into the damper, it runs to the "roof" of the damper, thus the air keeps being pulled out. you can get a jv3 tall damper about 95% full this way. 100% isn't necessary. you can use pressure against the outlet of...

pictures!

hmmm.... this dusting of ink and the post carriage pass overspray thing still points to an ink issue. each ink has a different viscosity. yellow is usually the highest, others can dry faster because of resins used and ratios of glycol ethers. so just because it's cyan doesn't mean that you...

you can isolate/eliminate the static issue by "wiping" it off of a test piece. take a sample of material off the roll. place it flat on a table. with a piece of felt (or sock but that doesn't work as good). very deeply burnish vertically half the material. so that at the scan of the print...

i print mostly on aluminum, and wood veneer, and a bit of polycarbonate. the white is fairly opaque. but goes on thinly and at a single quick drying pass is more of a translucent milk jug white. which is good for me. because i still want to see the metal or wood grain through the piece...

mimaki workaround might work on mutoh i'm a mimaki guy so forgive if this irrelevant. my printer firmware/auto measure (which on mine is rerouted outside the machine so i can force measure or not) has a margin that is attached after the auto measure. you can input an integer or negative...

i'm not much of a logo/text guy. but i am an artist. i'd try to adjust out the oblique nature of the x/k/a. they, being diagonal, look a bit obtuse when wanting to "brand" black box. but it does have good focus and impact. and maybe make the ratio of the text to box closer.

i understand completely and in the future, i will paraphrase that this is for advanced users only? these forums are for many intermediate users the only way that they can break off from using techs and better understanding the physics of their printers. in encourage everyone to do their own...

i have had some good luck getting through some complex diagnostics with a tech at http://www.splashofcolor.com/ . they are also affiliated with a company called graphic solutions (in houston). possibly if you got them on the phone and requested a phone/diagnostic you'd have some luck. they...

you pull ink from the line that feeds to the cap that runs to that head. on most machines there is a separator union just before that tube line goes into the pump. remember to look for small bubbles coming down the tube. if you don't get solid fluid, it is a sign of an air leak at the cap...

thanks! i love the franken-printer stuff. i'm getting together the supplies to put an automatic cleaning system on my sp. maybe in a month when things calm down. i'll post pics. it will allow me to run filtered cleaning solution directly to the heads coming in underneath the dampers. so...

Most likely scenario back in the day as a newbie, i bought one of the first piezo printers, a roland fj-50 for $17,500 (on sale, demo). that was over 12 years ago. it took me way too long to get it into production. by the time you get you kit really cranking, it will have depreciated 50%...

never wipe the heads i read/saw an article years ago discussing "wiping the heads". it had photo from an electron microscope of the bottom of a head after mild wiping. it does a lot of damage. the line of hole runs down the very 1/8" middle of the head platen on a dx4. you can wipe the...

are you saying that there is a yellowish tint? or that there is a little ghost in the print? yellowish tint can be from data shorts, rip issues, ink contamination, metamerism. ghosts... poltergeists, lost souls, possessed printers. can you send a pic?

PEG??? not terribly common across most solvent ink chemistry. if you wanted to go super basic, i'd say about 85% of them have an ethylene glycol base. the common household names for these are butyl cellosolve (ethylene glycol) and butyl carbitol (diethylene glycol...slower evaporation than...

oops. here's the link http://www.solventinkonline.com/Roland_fj500.html

got a bunch of carts from this guy awhile back. the site shows 440s for $14. but i bought roland 220s for $8 each. just email him. his website doesn't always show what he's got in stock.