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if they are clean, then your printing space might be too humid or too warm. keep in mind you are using aqueous media. that media is coated with a thin layer of synthetic gelatin. if that coating is softened in any way it will allow the pinch rollers to emboss themselves into the media...

what it sounds like is pinch roller tracks. get a cloth and some light solvent. not sure what HP makes it's wheels out of. but you can start with a glass cleaner and get tougher with other harsher fluids if that's not doing it but keep an eye out while experimenting. put some solvent or...

remember that, when rebooting the printer, pressing the front power button several times in a row is always crucial to eliminating stray charges in diagnosing and repairs. my mimaki's front button will light up green about "1.5" times even unplugged until all the electricity has left the...

in one of the videos he was doing a scratch test with a drill bit and a box cutter after the print was no more than a inch out of the machine. the halogen light was very crude. but, some of those little lights can be extremely hot up close. the mutoh 1608 can run this ink and it has the usual...

misalignment like this is always a date issue. the heads don't know where each other are at the same time. it also looks like on your second photo there is some gibberish being printed. first turn off the machine, on the front, turn if off on the back, unplug the machine, press the front...

if you have vacuum problems, etc. they can get worse and worse the more you clean because you are losing vacuum. please send a high res' photo or scan of the issue. and do the proper isolation protocols. just cleaning heads does not diagnose a problem above or below the print head.

here's some more links: http://www.wide-formatimaging.com/web/online/Products/Graphics-One-Launches-SEPIAX-Direct-to-Anything-Ink/5$5583 http://www.youtube.com/user/ArticSigns his little high output halogen looks like it's doing a good job, but i think i'd rather have the temperature...

i know nothing about epson parts, but i think there isn't a good solvent replacement part supply (wipers, wiper holders, capping stations, pumps, dampers, etc.) maybe you should try using outdoor water/alcohol based ink? i'm thinking about getting some samples myself just to see what...

are you discussing adding upgrades at no charge rather than just lowering the price?

this is a very possible issue with a large batch. there was a member of the mimaki yahoo group that was having trouble with a certain color. always followed the color (it was a custom batch of inks for glass printing from dupont). finally the ink was too high a viscosity causing ink...

definitely print and scan at high res' the issue. photos don't capture the exact up close anomalies that point to a certain issue. also i'd read this or some of the other threads on ink diagnosis. http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64305 do these protocols in order one at a...

did you do the half and half static media test?

if your tubes are showing large amounts of air. then the first thing to check is if your ink has run out. air can also get into the ink lines if the damper has an air leak at the o-rings. the way to check this is take off the damper. with a syringe pull ink back into the damper. leave it...

here's a latest order that i printed white on. they are a process called digi-glass that i developed several years ago. it's a four layer system that looks like kiln fired glass on metal. you can see the white ink as the second above an image brushed into the metal (i use my homemade uv clear...

i run my white to my jv3 160sp through and auxiliary line. with cleaning solution running straight as the common fluid. i run white about three or four times a month. when i do, i run white a for the entire day. couple pointers if you are going to run white either standard or auxiliary...

white can be buggy. read around and or pm some people that have experience with it.

when you do a normal clean is there latent ink sitting in the cap? and if so is it a normal amount. you definitely dried out that head. next time something similar happens, clamp off the cap/pump tube to that head and fill that cap with solution. and park until parts come in. (and parts...

yeah.... all this stuff looks like stuff you could just put together.

it is good that you replaced the head. not from a financial stand point. but you do still have the old head which might clean up pretty good after a long surface soak and be a good "back up" print head if you have some terrible head crash or clog. also "dead" heads that don't throw error 07's...

are you thinking to diagnose this you need to swap heads? you just need to swap damper positions. two cyan damper/ink lines going to say two magenta print head positions. and two magenta damper/ink lines going to cyan print head positions. there will be no touching of the print head or it's...