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clear polyester film(linked) would be your best bet haven't used this one specifically, but just search/inquire "printable non-adhesive optically clear polyester film" through your suppliers.

i haven't tried it, but it might be possible to run the software without the dongle in "demo mode" to open old files and copy to clipboard for pasting into another program. I'm sure there's also plenty of other Gerber heroes on this forum that would convert the occasional file for an eventual...

gross. sheet lamination of perforated graphics will never be clear, by nature of its application. liquid lamination is the way to go if you want the clearest result OR printing a perforated graphic/pattern onto a sheet of clear vinyl.

most transfer tape brands have a HighTack version. we use Rtape & Briteline hitack transfer tapes for 3M's dusted/frosted crystal vinyls without issue

are the knurled nuts supposed to be tamper-resistant too? i know that there's "trident" security nuts that you can use with carriage bolts but if I had to "tamper-resist" a knurled nut, then I feel like I'd have to drill&tap a security set screw into the side of it.

you would need to use a downcut bit to make this work. upcut pulls the vinyl up with the chips and shreds. downside, is that you need room for the chips to go so pre-filling an offset path before applying the field of vinyl would be ideal, before downcutting through the vinyl but then finishing...

i'm assuming your power is still wired? kinda defeats the purpose of "wireless" then

+1 Stacey's suggestion. its a banner on a wall at this point. just slap it up with lots of grommets and frame/cover the perimeter with something pretty.

ij35 is just as good as cast wrap vinyl in this case, indoor&wrapped around, especially if you have the ability to remove those corner caps and reinstall on top of your finished wrap. any exposed vinyl edges will take a beating with table cleanings. you could also save a buck, and ditch the 3M...

+1 Flatbed Tools only bits i've bought off amazon were disappointing unless they were amana/belin/onsrud resellers, however I still buy cheapo jeweler's bits (1/64, 1/32, 1/16) knowing that they always break easily regardless of brand.

i would have quoted the same if they want cheap, then offer ziptied signs on rebar or Uchannel posts staked into the ground, and a note to your client that they may need manual uprighting every freeze/thaw.

from what i read via the googles....australia only requires a decal on the window, not a reflective one. i only searched because i was curious why they would want reflective on a typically upward-curved window that would never reflect back at cars/headlights like a street sign would. ...and...

if its hollow, and has two faces, why do they call it a "Back-to-back" sign... when its simply an ("aka") double-faced pylon sign that has no backs whatsoever?

posted this in another similiar thread. figured i'd copy here as well.

i have the same problem when I exceed ~4ft of print&cuts. I believe it is the drag of the material going through the plotter that works its way out of alignment as you progress through batches of cuts. I've done longer batches by only exporting half of the page, flipping the sheet and...

new to summa tangential plotters, as we recently replaced our mimaki cg130's. Uncertain if it applies to cutting via printed registration marks, but for general plotting, I believe calibrating your length tracking may be the solution. ...for print&cut, reducing drag on the material or slowing...

i feel like your time would be better served at farmer's markets or starving artist events, than doing work on fbmarketplace where all the scammers&lowballers lurk. Heck, even pinterest&etsy are flooded with competition but people still make a living on those platforms. It may be different...

installing your own heads will always save you $$$. replacing a manifold instead of the entire printhead, will also save you $$$ however, doing either without feeling comfortable with the process could potentially cost you double/triple what a service tech doing it for you will be. ...if not...

die hard omega 2 user here, for outputting vinyl to plotters, but have been using Adobe for design as of the late 90's. Anything worth making the jump to Omega8, at nearly three grand, or am I correct to not be excited about simply spending money on features I will most likely never use?

i have a mimaki jv3-160sp I would gladly donate to a nonprofit if I can deduct ~$3k from my taxes. non-profit doesn't mean no-expenses. Sales tax for certain sales is waived for transactions relating to the charity's “charitable mission.” ...so they're never truly paying "retail" anyways...