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I wonder if women ever complained about how many cocks required manipulation in the morning.

big fan of tape & silicone, BUT tape won't stick to silicone and thin tape won't allow silicone to set thick enough to be of any use anyways. +1 tape only

we stud weld and hand-tap studs into 1/4" aluminum all the time. however, the fact that they are already painted leads me to think the latter would be the best option of the two. bonus points for the suggestion to simply mount to a panel and then mount that panel to the brick. less fuss at...

it is also possible to do a zero overlap tile line if you just tape your tiles together: cut once through both, and tape the seam together before applying both at once. overlap with a clear laminate strip to help keep the seam from opening-up/shrinking-back over time.

A "sharp" putty knife gets you behind the letter, and you can slice around the perimeter of the letter as you jam it/pry it to feel if there's a stud or not. If its just tape&adhesive, you can just grab the letter at twist it off the surface after you've cut through the perimeter of adhesion...

yeah, 3 layers is a lot but its doable if you use cast overlam that won't shrink & pull at the bottom layers. Not my standard practice, as it adds 50% more cost to your materials, but I've done it plenty of times while trying to print onto exotic materials that simply don't want to accept ink...

anywhere between $7k to $7mil. find them here

client realized they screwed up by providing low-res images & saying "GO" you screwed up by showing that you care. client is now trying to cover their arse by documenting distaste in an email, in hopes you back-off additional charges or they simply refuse to pay entirely because the "customer is...

swapped quite a few dx4 printheads over the course of a decade running my mimaki jv3. DIY adds up, would have been over $20k, plus time waiting for tech scheduling, to replace ~$7k worth of printheads.

unlaminated ij35 for a wall mural? bold move, cotton.

glad you found a fix! i would have suggested, as a last resort, to simply laminate the vinyl with a clear printable overlam, and let your print sink its teeth into that layer.

soak & scrape then cover with a larger decal OR skip the soak&scrape, just make a dibond panel with graphic that covers the whole thing. Labor for a crappy door restoration that is too cheap for paint, is WAY more expensive than a composite panel.

just get a letter in writing from the reseller that they will honor the warranty back&forth should the situation arise. We've been running that same machine without issue, and if you're buying a USED machine then why the hangup on a service provided by the company you're trying to bypass anyways?

i always pair 3M vhb tape with 100% silicone adhesive. never fails

Optima OptiKoat, once an Advanced Sign Supply house-brand, had a PSA 5mil Textured matte semirigid overlaminate. Now Grimco, and there's a Briteline OLFL 309 or a GF Concept 109 and I also have seen a Lamex 5mil textured Lustre but uncertain where to bet my sack of beans. Anyone have any...

Clean corners, keep you from losing letters, but also works well holding your layout/spacing until application & a couple flicks with the xactoto lop them off onsite.

cut with bridges and shave em down with xacto after install.

Orajet 3930, available from Fellers in 54". i've also ordered avery sf 100 in the past from Grimco. photo-luminescence is lackluster, but it does the trick and has been approved around these parts by building inspectors. not sure if reflective is the solution here, as it requires light to...

"you think I'm crazy?!? I'm not the one who hasn't heard of KidPix"

USPS, FedEx, UPS. what's the difference? two work beautifully on their own, and the other is a reflection of our government's ability to function.