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I don't have a copy running right now to play around with it but off the top of my head, my first thought is make sure you have the "Logical Seek" option turned on on the printer itself. It basically makes the head travel only where there is something to be printed. That may only work in the...

No just the 1604 for now.

No matter what you do, your final DPI is going to be about 66 due to the enlargement factor being about 4.5. That's pretty low so it's probably going to look pixelated. You could enlarge in Photoshop and make sure the "Resample image" option is selected and choose the "Bicubic Smoother" option...

I'd see if you can get a free trial and run the JFX on it. Onyx is generally a full featured RIP so I don't know why it would be limited on the JFX but as you said it might be some Mimaki specific feature they just don't have programed. I'd be willing to bet it works fine though.

Royal Printing in Denver should be able to help you.

The official routine requires you to clean the cap top and wiper every day which takes about 5 minutes. Most people only do that about twice a week though and in my experience that works just fine. Once a month you take a look under the head and clean any ink build up. Other than that you just...

We are parting out an old VJ-1604. All the panels are in decent shape except for the top right. Main PCB, Slider board, Carriage, and motors all in good working order. Asking 60% off of list price. $35 minimum + shipping. Message or call for details & availability.

Yeah the 1641SR is basically a 1624 with auto alignment added, new flanges for media handling and a fancy faux touch screen (it's just flat instead of buttons but not actual touch screen). It also is black instead of 1980's gray. That's about it though. The good thing is the 1624 was a great...

For sure. I install these machines in the field all the time and that is the number one complaint. The new models allow it so they are improving!

Actually, use this one. You plug the printer USB into one and plug the other one into your computer upstairs. Then you just run an Ethernet cable between the two.

This one should work without a power source although I can't be 100%. It depends on your setup. I have a customer who uses a similar one and it works fine.

Forgot to add, make sure you get a hub with a power cord. A lot of them only have USB power but if you don't want to have to have a computer powering it, they do have ones with normal power supplies.

Only the new CJV150 Plus model has Ethernet printing capabilities even though your model has an Ethernet port which is stupid I know. In your case though you do have options. You can get an Ethernet USB hub which will allow you to extend a USB connection from your upstairs computer to the...

We move used printers all the time. Joe House pretty much summed it up. Just to add, we normally put 2x4s under the stand to raise the casters up. We had far too many pop off in transit before we learned that lesson!

It tells the RIP how to render the print job but you can make it render different aspects in different ways. Your transparency issues are probably caused by the vector and bitmap rendering intents being different. An example would be you have a vector background and a raster image or effect...

All the more reason to check your rendering intents. They probably reset to defaults.

Flexi usually defaults to different rendering intents for vector and raster. My first thought is to change the raster image rendering intent to the same as the vector to see if that improves it.

Without a model number it's hard to tell but judging by the platen that is an old 6 head machine. My guess would be blown fuses on the head board because each fuse controls 2 heads. So in this case two might have blown which is why 4 heads dropped.

The Mutoh is a brand new model which means you won't get too many reviews yet. Mutoh printers are generally solid though. As BigFish said, UV hasn't really proven itself yet in the wrap market. The UCJV is a great machine but that would be one concern for sure.

You will probably have a better time with the CB15UA-K30 blade. It's 60 degree angle is better for thicker materials. Your blade is 45 degrees which is good for about .5mm thick materials whereas the 60 degree is good for up to 1.5mm.