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pretty much everything was done wrong with this already, don't do it wrong again by double-striking your ink.

box of crayons and substitute your red for the bright-red crayon. ...or go to adobe color swatch collection, pick a good one, and then shift-towards vinyl colors that are available to you.

treat it like an exterior sign, and you should be fine. mold/corrosion is a living thing too, but highly unlikely that will even be a factor unless you're making it out of paper-mache

+1 need more details. which specific vinyl & which specific printer

imho, there's no weight to a 6" .25" letter.... studs are overkill if its a pita to get setup properly, as there's not much material to tap-into and any pads you glue to the backside will now require standoff, which requires a 3rd stud or a stable spacer to keep the letter from tipping out of...

just thought i would give an update on this as well... after recently having the same problem myself, and realizing there's no simple-way to "bypass" it as I suggested years ago.... I found on another thread, that all you have to do is turn the dial all the way clockwise on both laser & receiver...

the "best" is an arbitrary term, as there are a LOT of printers out there that you can utilize to make coroplast signs. if the HP R1000 is in your price-range..... pull the trigger, and don't look back. Currently DYING to get one myself, but I just bought a new HP365 and my 2nd CNC router but...

chips need somewhere to go, they'll never go straight-up through the flutes and want to rub/melt against the material as you progress through the shape. I'm a huge fan of doing a rough-cut first, anywhere between 0.02"& up to half the diameter of the bit offset from the final part, but leaving...

flip it over on the table.

paper-inserts for an exterior sign? seems chintzy.... seems easy enough to do in-house, however, but I've never seen it as an "off the shelf" item from any supplier. edited to add: both pics appear to be simple extrusions, cut to size & bolted/screwed/rivot'd on, with a piece of...

onyx cut server wasn't designed to export regular cut paths, only rip-server-generated cut files from printed files....and only after they've been printed.

i've had that happen when i leave overlaminate hanging off the edge of my print, as most times my laminate is slightly bigger than my digital media or i'm not dead-nuts square with the print. any drag on the plotter, will result in disconnected cutpaths

was going to chime-in, that its definitely matchplate-mounted BUT doubtful that the sign was raised..... that extention was most likely the center of the structure of the sign cabinet itself and whomever removed the sign just carved everything away from it. not knowing what the footing is that...

the "raceway" in the picture you posted....is just a box. an aluminum pan, that caps onto either another aluminum pan or some aluminum angle mounted to the wall.

you can pretty much build them the same way they come as extruded, see any manufacturer's documentation of the profile as an example.... extruded just saves you labor & is structurally-sound to hold the weight of itself, and the lettering, and the power/wiring, while you have the service cap...

previous posts show its a 26500 as the error message states, check the switches. my money is on, as stated above, one of the two breaker switches on the back of the machine being flipped/tripped

if you can afford the 63", just go for it. Even if you're not handling 60" media just yet, you might someday and wish you had it. ...like me :) I've run the same 54" Seal laminator, with heat assist, happily without issue for 15yrs now.

if your 4th printhead is just cycling cleaning solution, then hell yeah you can always use it to replace a bad printhead in the system. they're all the same, BUT printhead replacement is a whole 'nother beast that I can walk you through or at least find the documentation that I used myself at...

solid looking machine tho, carriage looks clean & wiring looks in order. capping station is clean too. only place i could see where the cross contamination coming from would be either the wiper blade or you could also have some gooey bits built-up around the printheads themselves. i gotta put...

regarding cross-contamination, that black wiper-compartment might be a good start... ink build-up is normal, but when its starts getting gooey in there, it will transfer back to the printheads. What you see in the photo isn't the worst part, its right up under the top of the black housing that...