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if you want to use sublimation AND an exact match - try flame deposition of bronze! you may need to get creative on the masking as most things will burst into flame..... the bronze is sublimated in a plasma stream and deposited on the substrate, very similar to inks.....

I am sorry to hear yours is actually bad... per my example re Triumph Motorcycles, the machine may be within specs according to the techs and what they know to check and measure - however, there are way to work within the given parameters to maximize the output, like limiting the free movement...

I still think what you are describing can be attributed to the settings. The techs may not have the same finesse of setting everything up - an example from another industry: when Triumph Motorcycles were resurrected a few years ago, the factory was purchased with all the existing machinery...

something is binding your blade - completely clean the blade holder and make sure the blade can free swivel - on our other thread I gave some other thoughts. I have had this a few times from different causes. (and make sure for thru-cuts the blade in in the toward you hole so the blade goes in...

you blade holder is not letting the blade free swivel... sometimes a tiny piece of vinyl will adhere to the blade (very small, and going into the holder a little....) it will cause similar problems. if the marks are only on 1 direction, like in-out slices, not side-to-side, it can be caused...

it sounds to me like you have a setting off so that the FC9000 is not actually correcting the internal map of your substrate (it doesn't actually do segment correction....) I am not familiar with this failure, but when we first got the device, it absolutely needed to be calibrated (more than...

Dang Gino! I didn't take you for an herbivore! Our early harvest went down Tuesday when a hog and beef started the journey to Freezer Camp....

if you can cut accurately with 4 marks, but not with segments, look at how the rollers are holding the media, and possible slow things down. You should be able to roll through 50 feet of media and back without seeing any lateral shift of the media (basically you should not be able to see any...

I regularly cut 30' images (this is for posters, banners, stickers, etc, I just look to make an image between 300 and 400 inches long before hitting "print". I have been known to print an entire 160' roll (well, minus a little for the leader...) of 3" circle stickers as 1 image - I DO NOT...

we only used original artwork for corporate identities. This new trend of using stock images is crazy - how many people use the same bear/dog/lion/ paw print as call it good? (think school mascots here, but you get my point....)

as has been stated here a few times, artwork and printing are different things and are generally billed separately. Sometimes we would design logos for a totally cheap-a$$ customer who would nickel and dime you out of all profits - if you let him. We would always put on the invoice what rights...

I use Onyx, so I am not entirely familiar with your setup, but we run the FC 9000 and I pretty much only use the segmented area correction - this is different than the multiple marks. If I start a job for segmented area correction, it will scan the first 4 marks across the sheet, then the next...

I bet the Stuff from Substance (the sample I have is PM-2755) will stick to any oil based paint - as long as the paint is dry - this is from my limited experience with this. If you have a low surface-energy surface, use an adhesive rated for low-energy.

.... a few of our sites use a paint that is claimed to be anti-graffiti - I had similar issues getting vinyl to stick to it. A few things that worked well, 1) got a sample from Substance that is for very low surface energy applications - like plastics, things in snowmobiles that get greasy...

Kelly/Spicers as well as Veritiv work well - they are geared up more for the paper printing industry - I have often felt this means they are already used to working with less margin, and as such sell the wide format papers for less than what wide format specific vendors sell rolls for...

I agree the silicone coatings can be very difficult to remove. I am pretty sure acetone would work to remove Rain-X from glass, but do not get it on the paint!

the silicone in hydrophobic coatings such as Rain-X or newer "clear coat" washes (from the car wash or even the newer 'ceramic' sprays) will negatively impact adhesion. Make sure these are either not used, or are removed before applying any adhesive.

are you picking up or having it delivered? Veritiv has always waived the minimum purchase for us, but it only applies to delivery - there are other suppliers, Kelly Paper/Spicer's Paper would have similar products and pricing.

engineering bond is very cheap - it has been a couple of years since I purchased the last 2-pack of 36" rolls (500' each). I just looked at Veritiv's website , the 500'x36" rolls are $44.73 each. - that will give you close to 250 sheets of 24"x36" (depending on the waste you have from setup.)

this does sound like a viable plan - I would double check that the ground on the 3-prong that you will be using is actually a ground (should be easy, but if the property is older, there could be some outlets that were 'updated' and not properly grounded. - just this small step keeps some big...