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... you can get the HTV in rolls from Heat Transfer Warehouse, Grimco, Fellers, etc... anyone can print it. You can find 'ink only' and 'no-weed' HTV that will "transfer only the ink". now let's think logically about "Only the ink is transferred...:" what adheres the ink to the surface...

BigDog, so the white in the video is printed image and not substrate? it looks to me like the image was printed on a white HTV. (and just to be clear, more than just ink is being transferred, there is a substrate and an adhesive... if you doubt, cut a piece of what you use and look at the...

okay, again, it is a naming thing - if you look at the actual "HTV", not all is actual "vinyl" anymore, PET is used, PVC also (though this is a kind of vinyl).... my point is that it is a heat transfer, and you can readily buy rolls of it to use. it is just a substrate with a heat activated...

BigDog... so the video is wrong? it shows normal, printable HTV (vinyl with a heat activated adhesive) being added to the blank.... this can be printed on most wide format printers. and if it is the procedure you use, then you are adhering a vinyl media to the board - just calling it HTV.

So, to the OP, all the info you give is "a large skateboard company". So, if this is a "PROFESSIONAL" company, please do not try vinyl as it may offend them. But depending on their market, they may be very receptive to contour cut vinyl graphics for their boards. If they insist on a heat...

... and for long lasting? I have a Bane board from about '74 that still has all the original graphics still all clear and readable... so were Bane boards "Professional"?

btw, I have also put graphics on skateboards since before Toenails and Carlsbad were closed. There have been many ways to put ink on wood (or fiberglass, acrylic, aluminum, etc..) Just because you choose a specific method does not mean that the other methods are wrong.

... Oh, so people who make product to sell at large retailers are not professional? good to know. I thought we were using standard English, I will make notes.

... checkout the boards a WallyMart - lots of 'stickers', 'decals', 'water slide', 'heat transfer vinyl' on their boards - basically something printed on a different substrate then adhered to the board - call it what you want, there is a media with printing on it that is affixed to product -...

My kid's skateboard came with vinyl stickers on the bottom - looks like very thin and no laminate.

(changing from a 45 to a 60 or back can change the needed downforce - but sometimes the more efficient cut is the determining factor, sometimes the angle of attack of the 'wing'(cutting edge) is, - basically I have not found a good rule-of-thumb other that changing blades may require a change in...

Sometimes going back to the working theory of the device may help. 1)the cut depth should be determined by how far the blade protrudes below the flat circle opening at the bottom of the holder. for this to happen: 2)the down motion of the head must be enough to allow for the head to 'float'...

I like the last tip Ikarasu! Also, I have found that you can cut with less waste if you do not cut in a grid pattern.... offset the rows a little so that there is more of a honey comb type of mess left behind (the between cuts from one row run into the middle of the object above and below in...

Victor, good idea! and you can always include a link or two about the perils of vaccinating your kids too!

My general assumption is that you entered this screen by turning the machine on and then before loading paper you hit the <pause> then the <2> for "Arms" and then the down arrow twice to get to this exact screen.... if this is correct, please repeat from the beginning, but let the plotter load...

... the volume of a sphere increases as a function of the cube of the radius... if you are measuring a point of light, the energy would be reduced as a function of a cube of the distance... IF you are measuring an energy density over an area, the function would be as a square of the...

... there is surely a chart that has all the calculations for reduction of light density vs distance from source...... try a physics book.

simple conversion and math - look up the foot candle rating at a specific distance from the source, calculate the distance to the "some distant location" and then realize that the light density on an imaginary sphere leaving the light source drops off as a function of the cube of the distance...

have you confirmed that it has adhesive holding it to the window? at least in the pic the long vertical edges appear to be rolled in, it may just be a window shade and not adhered vinyl.