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how about white panel with full-red vinyl coverage with lettering weeded-out?

using the phototex or phototex(s)? that could make the difference, I've used both on my latex, and the (s) on my mimaki are dry once they come off the printer. granted, I usually print max passes to give my prints more drying time before they hit the takeup roll.

had same issue with my mimaki. ink pump line split within the mechanism of the pump. there's already an aluminum well beneath it, with a foam sponge, but I didn't know there was an issue until there was approx. 100cc of ink in it and it had overflowed over the weekend, shorting out my takeup...

2013 - Arlon DPF6000XRP w/ 3200 Satin Overlam, 1080 Carbon fiber hood/top/tail (just noticed these were incomplete photos, as we had added black reflective contact info/website graphics w/ white outline soon-after) 2012 - 3M IJ180cv3 w/ 8915 ultramatte overlam, red carbon fiber hood/top is...

not bad for under 1hr. wish I could be so productive from scratch. if you're looking for other ideas, Madison Mallards has a great logo.... looks like a skull & crossbones, but with a duck head and baseball bats. ...which also appears to be a spin-off from the Mighty Ducks' logo

anchors, screws, and washers... into the MORTAR LINES silicone will ruin the brick wall.

Rules change, lists need updating, and a print will last until there's a need for another. +1 to second-surface print on thick acrylic plaque mounted with tamper proof stand-offs.

which reflective and which overlaminate, specifically? never seen that happen before, but I would immediately assume that cheap-calendared overlam is the culprit. ...or maybe tried laminating reflective onto some economy airEgress vinyl for ease-of-install.

data. power-down your machine and check your cable connections. printhead ribbons, specifically.

your clients don't complain that all of their printed logos are too dark from all the double-striking? white trans. print applied over clear print is the way to go. same color day/night, and your prints should dry like they are normally supposed to... right away. for $20k, heck... for less...

+1 Colorado's response. if they want cheap, they'll get cheap and it will last just fine. I'd love to replace every Lexan panel with new, but most people just don't care if its a little yellow, watermarked with someone else's logo, or has holes in it if it will save them $100+. Lexan won't...

:roflmao:

its really just a landlord issue, the person who actually owns the sign. it should be up to them to hold a standard, and see this move as damage to property that can just as easily be paid-for out of a security deposit :) might be worth dropping off a card, "hey I noticed you have a new...

books are great, but youtube videos are awesome. i wonder, is there a non-gold leafing material out there that simulates real gold leaf? I'd love to practice myself, but worry about burning through a bunch off $$$product.

:goodpost:that software looks awesome!

you may as well be asking how many Solar Power & Wind Turbine units it will take to replace a Nuclear Power Plant. there's a conversion, HERE, but its just not the same ...round-up/add extra units, as it is better to over-do than have an unhappy client with a HUGE bill and a dim sign. we're...

well.... he's asking for paint recommendations, and also claiming lack of access to typically recommended options. I'm no fool, I just have realistic responses. He should just go to someone local that sells paint, and ask them what they got. no brainer. and I always recommend what works...

i would also throw-in that lamination with high tension on the web/feed rollers may cause this as well. regardless, it is most likely that the conditions exceeded the normal operating expectations of calendared vinyl. anything permanent, or at least intended to be long-lasting, go with cast...

haven't seen it fail. granted, I just use em for pinch projects when our paint booth isn't an option. But for our bread&butter signage projects, our shop carries both Mathews and AkzoNobel paint systems.