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you can transfer a pattern to wood via vinyl/stencil or digital print + acetone (there's youtube videos on this). and then simply "paint-by-numbers" with a wood burning kit and a LOT of patience.

3M Satin Gold (180C-131, 7725-131, 7125-131) is PMS 872C close enough, imho.

this was discussed in another thread, where the OP wondered why his 5600+210 FAILED. imho, laminating cast materials with calendared is a sure fail. its like building a house, but saving a few bucks on using a tarp instead of building a proper roof.

i've heard of someone having this issue before... there's an old post somewhere on these forums, i just know it. have a feeling it ended up being a board issue.

cheers! :toasting: we also just retrofitted our shop with energy-efficient fluorescent lighting... replacing our energy-hoggin' HPS shop lighting system (about 20!)

<3 the heated top-roller on my 54" seal big +1 for that machine!

if you changed the capping station recently, i'm more inclined to lean that way... if not for the mesh screens possibly being convexed and wicking, you could be getting the same result with a bad carriage-park and essentially having the same result but wicking down the rubber cap instead...

great machine. even if its a lemon, which is doubtful since its a tank, you could easily put some money into it at that price and get it up to snuff. then again, at that price, i'm curious why he hasn't simply parted it out.

wiping things with dryer sheets helps prevent static cling. however, I've never tested it on materials prior to prinT... yet!

sexy. i love textured media!

i run my jv3 with Onyx. I've used flexi in the past, but onyx rocks my socks off. if you're buying a printer second-hand... be prepared for it to not work as well as you may have seen it running in someone else's shop. Packing it up, transporting it, installing it, is a LOT of downtime to have...

Don't movie theaters get those for free? It's like me trying to sell a bar a miller neon.

first and last time I paid someone $200/hr was my printer tech. that did nothing but try to sell me a $2k printhead... no wait, 2nd and last... my first was @ Spearmint Rhino is LasVegas. Well worth the $$$.

HAHA. o geez.

you should be fine. heck, my unlaminated solvent prints have lasted 4+ years with minimal color fading... all depends on how much direct sun exposure it gets AND your client knows to never attempt to clean it with anything but a damp cloth. plus, its my understanding that latex > solvent in...

"i would love to rework this logo for you, but I will have to charge an additional xx.hours of design time for the extra effort involved beyond the scope of our initial terms."

o, and weed your letter centers first! pulling fields of controltac off a sign face is easy, if lightly applied, but picking at the centers of letters becomes tedious real-quick and you might be tempted to rush and accidentally damage the panel with your xacto.

I've done pretty well using whatthefont and the "suitcase fusion shuffle" to match existing typefaces in the past, but I've been recently researching software upgrades and came across "Font Genius" software (extensis) that's supposed to do the same thing as whatthefont, except it only matches...

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sounds like a good idea for them to make a printer this way... as they already can sell you all the parts you'll need to repair/replace.