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Keys require activation, so they're one time use. They have a free 6>7 upgrade path and I think there is a 5>6 still.

Yeah, it's a long flight from OK City to Italy, so can't blame them if they're techs I know. PM me if you need a copy, won't be the latest one, but will be one that's already floating around the public.

Might want to run a bed thickness check. Acceptable deviation across the entire bed is 0.4mm, but with time and some Allen wrenches, can get that down to 0.1-0.2mm easy.

Sounds like you've knocked out everything but the head control board and maybe firmware. Not much else to go on, maybe due to environmental issues like printing in a non-climate controlled environment? Not a whole lot of things I would try short of maybe ink valves/needles and such.

Can put all issues in one thread for making it easier to track. But anyways, have you tried running media size compensation on the quality tab? Also, there's a dedicated Mimaki section on the forum where your post is more likely to be seen by we Mimaki nerds...

Subtanks are used instead of dampers as they can handle the thicker ink and support vacuum/pressure loading. Can try turning on nozzle recovery to disable the specific nozzles and see if that cuts power those nozzles.

Printers go obsolete like any other tech. Even if everything was still in production, they would be dumb to keep building a printer that couldn't keep up or deliver the quality/speed of modern printers of the size/weight. That said, the older the machine, as with pretty much any machine, the...

If it seems to be a random channel(s) that are dripping, it could be an air leak in the head itself causing the head to leak ink while printing. If you haven't already check and see if an air purge clears it up. In certain cases, it can also be a small leak in the damper, not a cheap part, but...

I'm sure in the 8 years since the original post, they've figured out what to do. :rolleyes:

I've learned not to give away RIP and other semi-expensive software, because I will get private messages from zero-post accounts created 10 minutes before they decided to PM me out of the blue years after the relevant post.

Ebay? It's not free software. If you printer can run on 7, that's less than $50 for the current version.

Sounds like ink starvation, so yeah, first bet is dampers. Might be worth flushing the line as well.

Check your capping station, damper, do a head clean, nozzle wash. All the usual stuff. If the channel doesn't recover nozzles, consider replacing the head. Same as usual when you have nozzles missing.

Seen this kind of issue before. If at all possible, scale the art before putting it into RasterLink if you haven't already. Next thing is make sure you have a reliable zero point to set the acrylic against to make sure it is in the same spot each time you need to flip or swap material. Also...

I just use pre-stretched canvases from places like Michael's and tend to do between $20-60 depending on print size. Since we use a 4'x8' flatbed, it's crazy easy. Though, no idea what industry rates are.

He went to #Adjust and set the date/time in service mode if it was more than 2 months. I've been over the firmware in Ghidra and have found zero mechanism in the service modes for reprogramming dates/capacities on chips. It can be done with external devices, but the chip tends to get invalidated...

I just go to the layout page in RasterLink and scale it to whatever size needed before printing samples. We tend to avoid anything Adobe format-wise.

As of late, I've been repairing printers more than printing. Most prints are small repetitive prints, so we just did a quantity of 1-2 as a sample for approval. For large prints, we just scaled them way down and did 'postcard' samples.

It's just calibration that needs to be done, covered in service manual.