Search results

Thanks for contributing, and as stated before, welcome. =) There's 2 types of people that people like me get burned out on, those who come in and screech like a banshee and revive dead threads and start new ones in hopes we'll hand hold them through fixing a machine they have no business...

I use RasterLink 7, but it's just installed with the profile manager, then I go to quality and set it to the ICC profile with the Color Matching settings.

I thought PHILJOHNSON did that. Oh well, I am cheap and live next to Texas, so I mostly use Digiprint to get it next day. Clean Cut blades are also my go-to, even if they weren't cheaper. I use a tangential cutter, and the factory ones seem to be more failure prone and have a mediocre grind on...

Digging up 4 year old threads is a bit crazy. Your parameters are specific to your printer, so using parameters from another machine will just give you issues.

Oldest I have used was 6, and since they made RasterLink 7 under $50, we went exclusively to it. Though, it lacks support for older printers.

Probably a similar setup, though now with commodity printer parts like head drivers and such, things like this are WAY cheaper. The more printers we work on, the more realize that they're just turning into Lego builds. For the price of a single unit like that in 2018 from a well-known vendor...

Had someone ask us about this setup, and from the signs we saw in person, seemed pretty obvious how they were getting output. Corrugated plastic is cheap when buying in massive bulk, UV ink can be had as little as $40/liter. Signs were printed at 150 or 300 DPI, and probably on a large...

Just loaded it in in the Quality tab in RasterLink7.

Probably not, this is a 4-year-old thread.

Before changing parameters, make sure your firmware is up to date and can support said changes. Also, BACK UP YOUR PARAMETERS. If you end up with issues, see if changing the parameter back fixes it.

I guess I should look more into signs, the stuff looks pretty good backlit and is way easier to mess with than putting big stickers on sheets of polycarbonate. Plus, we're in tornado alley, could be lots of repeat business.

If the ink isn't cured and the capping station has done its job keeping light out, UV heads are typically recoverable. WAY more often than solvent heads in my experience. The main thing is using a flushing solvent designed for the UV ink type as well as checking the lines. Not uncommon to find...

Normal startup is gross, service mode for all the machines!

There's never enough stupid fun to go around.

Should be fine, can just go to #adjust>subtank to fill from there.

Microsoft has a long history of maintaining a hard stance on things people don't like for a good few months and then folding like a wet paper bag.

We didn't bother with getting AI coprocessors or whatever they're called on our systems. Reminds me of dumb stuff like those short-lived PhysX cards.

Works fine here, Windows 11 Pro. Can also use an alternative viewer like Files, available here for free. https://files.community/

Had some luck using an iStudio (formerly XRite, now Calibrite) colorimeter and using it to make decent profiles that I then shuffled into RasterLink. Checking my box full of Mimaki software to see if I have one. Happen to need 30 RasterLink 6 dongles while I am at it? I think these might be it...