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Could just be a bad head.

Cap top alignment can shift, or might not be done right in the first place. Good to go through the procedures to make sure it's actually sitting right on the nozzle plate.

I still have about 12 bottles of PR-200 primer from machines I've converted back to ink (the stuff nukes printheads) and it works semi-decent as a brush-on primer. Expensive, if you buy it at retail, but does the job in some cases.

No real way to get around that short of reflashing or replacing the chips. Was probably calculating cycles as it sat dormant. Are you at least getting clean nozzle checks?

What's your nozzle check look like? Might have air in the head.

Hey now, that's my secret fun when purging a head, run 600 dpi, 30 passes and ending up with a rubber blanket I can peel off the print and giggle at unnecessarily.

There's a bug going on when posting saying there is an error today, just ignore it and manually verify it posted. Annoying, but not critical.

4 Threads is a bit excessive.. Check your cap alignment and make sure your wiper's clean.

We run LUS-150 in a JFX500 and LUS-120 in a JFX200 (weird, but the printer came with that ink) and both are a bit dodgy on acrylic. Surface prep and luck seem to be key, promoters might be a good bet. Make sure it's actually rated to work for acrylic and not just a generic adhesive promoter...

Try removing and re-adding the printer in the print manager. To avoid losing print jobs, you can set it as a file printer and then change it back to IP.

Mimaki UCJV300-160 is a workhorse, recently replaced with the UCJV330, the 300 is around $10K on the used market and the new 330 is just under $30K retail. Not messed with the 330 much but seems to be doing good so far. Also the bulk bottle ink system is about the cheapest way to go for ink per...

Yeah, default sleep time of 30 minutes is silly, we set ours to 180 minutes. Not like it has a heater, so idle power is minimal. Go to Menu>Machine Setup> should be first option. Another nice perk is aftermarket ink support as well as the 1L bottle system. So much waste ink leftover in cartridge...

Yup, caps and dampers are my first go-to for ink dropping out.

Was the power supply putting out too much or too little voltage, or none at all? Surge damage might be a thing, but too many possibilities without proper troubleshooting.

The Roland demos out here have been great for me. People show me the 'amazing new' stickers that their dealer prints out to give away and I shrug and point to my 2016 era UCJV300 and tell them I can already do them.

Depends if there are signs of damage to wiring and the like. If there's a head crash or something, could be a crushed wiring harness shorting things out. Really depends on the model as well for board failures. Usually boards that are reliable will be for most people, and boards that fail a lot...

Looks vacuum formed to me, but could be wrong. LUS-350 ink does that well.

Another JFX500 possibly on the way. Holy hell.

Caps and dampers, the 2 things that cause the most issues. That said, I have no idea what model of printer you're referring to.

All inks do, they can break down over time. They tend to aim short because they have no control over things like temperatures people store the inks in and so on. UV ink has some of the shortest shelf-life due to its chemistry. Tends to be 1 year. If getting OEM ink from Mimaki, not uncommon for...