Search results

Damn, 8 year necromancy on this one. As for ultrasonic, on newer more sensitive heads, tends to be a bad idea. Best bet is soak/flush methods in my experience. Toshiba heads like the CA4 are pretty robust overall, so you can hit them with some ultrasonic, but best bet is clearing out the lines...

Be careful about unbolting any frame parts that aren't access panels, doing so can make your machine lose squareness. That said, calibration processes are covered in the service manual and shouldn't be too difficult.

All good. Any signs of damage? Usually doesn't damage the carriage, but can screw up and sometimes even shear off the encoder sensor in extreme cases.

Y current error means something dun jammed up. Basically the motor isn't giving feedback it's moving, so it ramps up current until it tops out. Based on the long "please wait" message, it's not homing, so definitely what Solventinkjet said. Yay for another thread on the same project/machine. -_-

Digiprint seems to be cheapest game in town, unless you can find a salvage one.

Looks like collision damage of some kind. Thankfully those DDR2 boards are pretty much universal and really common. Never seen a bad one before, but scavenged a few over the years.

For the UCJV series, LUS-170 is the most versatile, economical, and most common ink for this printer. Swapping colors is easy, such as going from light cyan/light magenta to clear. Just takes a bit to purge pigments.

From what I could tell, it was a slight formulation variance for compliance between 170 and 175. Never seen 175 in a UCJV300/150, everyone pretty much runs 170. Changing inks is easy, but going to 175 here in the US might result in some issues getting the ink you need.

Shoot, I have 5 people waiting on UCJV300s, can't get enough of those things.

Subtanks either delaminate and leak air, or the built in filters get contaminated and permanently clogged. The ink's pigment fills the mesh and basically blocks the filter, thus keeping ink from getting into the vacuum/pressure system. Pressure helps discharge ink, vacuum keeps ink from...

Dangeresque has gold sunglasses, so was a fun print. Got the gold as a small sample roll, so wanted to see how well it worked. Color on white print on the UCJV300, but would probably work well on solvent too.

Cap station mod most done. Now I can buy over 100 caps for the price of 6.

I print on gold adhesive film, it's only 2mil though. Fun stuff to UV print on, and decent results. https://plasticguy1.com/products/ols/products/pg-2g

White takes some time and effort, once safe to print, not a bad idea to do some white-box prints on crappy media. Make sure your caps are flowing well, and circulation is doing its thing. If you want, mix of flush in with the white ink by siphoning some from the bottle station with a syringe...

Big fan of the Mimaki UJF-6042 MKII as they are really common on the used market and built like tanks. Aftermarket ink is as low as $70 a liter and they use good industrial heads instead of the ancient DX4 Epson heads. Plus, WAY faster than a Roland.

Capping stations are expensive, so doing the cheap thing and making adapter plates to let me use $6 Chinese caps. Yes, they suck, but when you can buy 25 of the caps for the price of one, definitely worthwhile. Should work on most gen5 printers from Mimaki too. Such as the UCJV300 and all the...

Flushing subtanks results in a terrible morning where multiple liters of ink overflow your waste tank and ooze all over your floor.

Yup, where the ink jets from. As for number of cleanings, doesn't really matter too much. Just uses ink. Ink itself is basically coolant for the heads to some degree. That said, ink is also heated for jetting properties. Best not to run dry heads, and cleaning cycles typically will fire all the...

Do head washes, they work pretty well. Gently wipe the nozzle plate and platen down with cleaning solution as well. make sure your wipers are nice and straight. Also, go and check your wiper gap, covered in service manual. Old ink building up on the nozzle plate will cause deflected heads.

Silicone o-ring/seal grease works fine. Subtank just clips on, remove lines and sensors first. Run subtank discharge as shown in service manual and mark sensors to avoid mixing them up.