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Yeah, finding a factory tech that will mess with anything over 8 years old is a feat in and of itself. Best bet might be finding a donor machine with bad heads and harvest boards from there. Probably way cheaper than getting new parts if you can find one cheap. That said, some art to the...

If I am going to try and fix something, it better be fixable.

Not off the top of my head. What kind of issues is the printer giving you?

I know some vinyl cutters with 'tint kits' have an extra ground strap that drags on the media to help dissipate static are a thing. Can also try an ion donor compound like static guard on the printer/floor to try and help cut down on static as well.

Definitely had a lot better luck after updating the firmware on my UCJV300. Mimaki doesn't make it easy without their software tool (which can be found around here pretty readily). Luck is always a factor in printers as well.

Not certified on any of the Mutoh printers, only had a bit of experience with some of the older Valuejet line and that was hacking firmware to bypass cartridge chips.

Check those grounds first.

I'll throw my hat in for the UCJV300 and I do tech support almost daily on the thing. Can also get them for a killer deal on the used market. Short of frame damage or being left out in the sun, they're easy to revive compared to most printers I've worked on.

Only cracking I see is in the encoder wire sleeve, not too bad. But yeah, any bare exposed wire should be insulated.

Your machine's ground should be redundant, but you might want to try an outlet tester. A properly grounded outlet is vital on a large format printer in general as there's a big electrical assembly flying back and forth over plastic all day. It's basically a Van De Graaff generator in the making...

Color screens like that can be pretty susceptible to damage, but as long as the system seems to be functioning otherwise. Good to take a peek at the motor and see if it shows any signs of damage, dragging, etc.

I've moved 2 of these fully assembled with a 28' box truck using a lift gate and a separate lift to hoist the other side up. The JFX500 is the real monster, but the 200-2513 is thankfully about 4" narrower than a typical 28ft box truck. The printer will fit with room to spare with the carriage...

Motors are technically on the common replacement items list. Under good circumstances and with luck, the Y motor will last the life of the machine. Check your encoder connection on the motor and also take a look at your braking resistor connection. If the braking resistor is going out, can cause...

Roller force, bad rollers, or junk built up on the main grit roller can cause this. Can also adjust speeds, feed out material from the roll to keep the moving mass down, and maintenance like oiling roller shafts can help a lot.

Pinch rollers are consumables on most cutters, might be worth sourcing new ones.

How old are your rollers? Also, tried dialing back your speeds? At 1:10 in the video it looks like there's something wrapped around a pinch roller. Tapered/damaged rollers or contamination on them can make the roller asymmetric and give it weird tracking properties.

Check roller tension and make sure media is feeding straight. Also, try paying out enough media from the roll for the cut job in advance and see if that reduces the drift.

Usually going to dual CMYK just cuts number of passes in half. Great for speed, little, if any difference on the amount of total ink being jetted in the particular area. If you need black, you can adjust color bias in your RIP or the art itself. Most people cannot see much difference between 4...

Lots of syringe time in your future. Best of luck.

Sounds like you have a lot of errors to chase down. Do your best to flush the heads, or at the very least, soak them at the capping station. After that, knock out each error in turn and make sure to avoid getting sunlight or UV light into anywhere with ink, especially the heads. Cured ink is...