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3ft of water flooded the machine. Other wise, it was a good printer. We had issues with white ink dropout, but overall it was a good machine given the price point. We moved on to an HP R2000 recently.
I'd agree with a lot of things said above. It's all possible with a one man shop, I did it early on before we transitioned into other work in the retail display market of our business. If it were me I'd take an installation training class first. Even if you chose not to go into vehicle...
I'm still in negotiations to purchase an R2000. It's just been something that's been brought up in demo'ing the machine. My understanding so far is that there can be alignment issues with long run panels - meaning 75-100 ft
We added tile gasket https://store.allstarcnc.com/tile-gasket to our spoilboard on our AXYZ for a polycarbonate job we did months ago and it's been a life saver. Technically I'm supposed to put my sacrificial mat on top of my spoilboard for knife cutting, but I'm eager to try knife cutting...
I don't know the colex dust collection setup, but you can't set that to be slightly above the substrate if you're cutting print side up? I know on our AXYZ we can manually set the height of the dust collection boot. If the prints are sensitive I put a scrap piece of 0.060 styrene or Petg on...
Not sure you still need help, but we always ran a warmup cycle and then cut. It's been 3yrs since I ran a Gerber so I can't remember the exact protocol to warmup or actually cut a job, but i'm attaching the user manual. That should list the steps.
I like the cheetah wrap personally. The low, low tack can be annoying some times with the extra heating, but it seems like a good product. I bought a roll to wrap my personal vehicle when I get the time.
Yes, the axyz infinite machines use plenums that are plumbed to a vac manifold that I can turn on and off for the zone I'm using. They essentially machine a light grid into the plenums and use gasket tape to seal off each zone to the spoilboard. We're 100% cutting with a milled sheet of MDF on...
They don't seem gummy, but I did find cutting any plastic sheets with a plastic liner the parts actually stuck to the mats. We had to pry parts off, which in my opinion was great considering we had so few parts get spoiled from movement or chatter. My Axyz came with a 10hp busch mink pump...
We recently covered our bed with tile gaskets from AllstarCNC and what a difference it's made holding and cutting small parts. It's like night and day. The foam is made to be cut into slightly be a margin nominally 0.005" extra on your Z height once the product is installed. We ran several...
Miguel, we're not building up 3D letters, we're just cutting flat acrylic into letters. I think you're talking about full acrylic letters and returns all out of acrylic. It's something we've done, but it is a pain in the neck to do for all the intricate bending. Most places I see doing those...
I don't do much engraving, but we do a lot of logos/letters that are adhesive backed. We went with a Thunder laser. I'd run a boss laser for approximately 5yrs a colleague of mine owned and they're honestly pretty simple to operate.
1. Wattage is going to dictate how fast your feed rates are...
We used to cut foamcore all the time on our Polar guillotine. We'd just put a small piece of similar thickness scrap under the hold down bar so that it wouldn't imprint onto the foamcore. For straight cutting, I don't think you can beat a guillotine sometimes. SBS, coroplast, PETG, thing PVC...
I run their next size down, shoot me a PM if you've got any questions. I ran a boss laser for roughly 5yrs before I bought the Thunder so I'm fairly well versed in operating and setting up your material for cutting. I've got a pretty robust materials library with a bunch of useful materials...
I use the Orafol 1375 and 1377 adhesive. We order it by the 48" roll when we can get our hands on it. It's really good stuff and it's a lot cheaper than most anything I've found that was similar - including that killer red tape.
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