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Yeah, I don't think I'd worry too much about that as long as you test primer/adhesion promotor and you're satisfied with the testing.

$50 to ship from Belbien is a pain in the neck. I just went through the same thing for some brushed gold we got for a prototype. I like their films over the Dinoc equivalent though.

I don't have any recent first hand experiences doing that honestly. PVC's been basically blacklisted for retail interior display components and signage. I thought Vycom Celtec had an outdoor equivalent, but I don't have their full catalogue in front of me.

I feel like 3M's the only one that's got trailer/rivet specific training.

For some of our display parts we prefer the Vycom brand Celtec too. It's denser and we find it a lot smoother honestly.

It's hit or miss, but I have a sign I made for a neighbor out of the palram standard 6mm stuff and one of the signs is yellowing. It's getting much more sun exposure than some of the others I did and even our own signs, but the 1 is migrating in color.

I've got a couple rolls that I kept in the bags that are at least 2-3yrs old and they seem fine.

I specifically remember phototex opaque still showing through on seams. It's been a while since I've used it, but I'll dig up a photo. I do remember the content was yellow and black, but not sure how much that would matter.

Overlaps with phototex opaque still show up darker too I believe, don't they?

Low density or medium density MDF shouldn't need holes. We have drilled holes in our old Gerber's high density MDF spoilboard, but that was just because we were worried it wouldn't have enough vacuum draw through the HDF.

I've used 3m Primer with Avery too, although I would trust the advise of the folks above that have had issues. It's only been a handful of times I've had to do this and it was for a larger pool of fleet vehicles - meaning the client almost never complained when there were glaring issues in the...

$5-7k is going to exclude most industrial sized printer and cutter formats people will be familiar with on a forum like this. Honestly it sounds like you've got a good plan with the OKI printer and Silhouette cutter.

We output from our laser using lightburn software which has an awesome nesting widget. Doesn't really help if you want work solely in Illustrator.

We'd laser cut or CNC cut out of acrylic, SBS, corrugated that would locate the parts and we could run multiple parts up on the printer.

We were happy with our Vanguard and we ran a fair amount of precut parts in jigs that were printed after they were cut.

What tack transfer tape are you using Dave? I always have problems pulling high tack tape off plotter cut graphics for walls.

Yes, everyday.

I'd just practice with a freshly snapped blade on the same material you're planning on using directly on the floor. With a light touch and practice I don't see it being a problem. Wrap installers go through similar training when they can't use knifeless tape on vehicles.

I use V-carve pro on my stuff. Have you checked if they offer a post for your brand of CNC? How does your software define flange offset and hatch offset?

or globalgarage, there's always new stuff on there.