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We're using a Signburst Inferno that's about a year old with a Synology NAS hard drive array we work from. We're running windows 10 currently. Typical Adobe design software, Vectric CNC software and a multitude of plotter, laser and corrugated box design software.
Me too, we bought an S1 D140 earlier in the year and I'm avoiding Flexi. I'm using gosign currently and it works and all, but it's just lacking features and things like that.
I played with the settings quite a bit for the initial files I needed it for - and to be clear we did use some of those elements from gigapixel + photoshop for the signs we produced. I did drop some low res pictures in there and I was impressed with the results. I definitely agree it's a...
When we were looking at Canon printers this was something we were interested in too for the display arm of our business, but in the end we went with a Vanguard press so we didn't explore any further.
I used gigapixel for some very low res icons and elements of a sign we just made. I think my root files were just too low resolution because it turned a lot of the content into gobble-dee-gook. We ended up retypesetting or recreating a lot of the content in the end.
I don't know how the print process works on press in terms of the head height and things like that. That's something I couldn't find in any of the touchstone or tactile print videos that Canon's got online.
I would seam it exactly as you're showing in the last mockup. Fender first, vertical side of hood and then the horizonatal flat part of the hood on top. I'd definitely use knifeless tape and treat it like large inlays for a complex bumper recess.
Have you checked the wiring to the keypad? We had something similar many years back and a pin had popped out for the connector between the keypad and the cable. We just bypassed the plug on ours and wired it direct although it doesn't sound like that's something you want to do.
I've generally always had success calling a product support line. It's in their best interests to explain what tooling they'd recommend. I've called Osrud dozens of times on their help line for different materials we were cutting and how best to dial in feed rates and RPM.
It says it's CNC routable so someone must make tooling that plays well with the steel and plastic core. There's lots of ACM tooling, but it'll generally state it's not good for ferrous metals so I'm guessing tooling for thin sheet steel would work just fine?? They don't get into much specifics...
I run their 5Y chip collection head and other than crashing that head into shallow board and knocking it out of position it's worked well. It still allows you to put force onto what you're cutting, but you can also have it set to be raised above a part if you say don't want to scratch something...
I bought a Thunder laser earlier in the year and have been happy with it. I ran a Boss laser for several years before that and moved to the Thunder platform.
Kongsberg is the other big company, but personally I'd look at the Colex. Axyz doesn't have a belt bed option and honestly having one and running the knife stuff on it, it's not that fast compared to the other big names you mentioned. It's more of a swiss army knife.
We have old wood A-frame carts that we use constantly. We do a lot of acrylic work too so having an anti-static air gun has proved immeasurably helpful.
Skela, we ran the drill program to drill holes straight through the MDF into the aluminum vacuum plenum. We didn't run any pockets though. I mainly drilled new holes in the MDF because we used a really dense sheet of MDF for the spoilboard. I was worried it wouldn't draw vacuum through very...
We usually network for our contracted installers or rely on other sign shops to hang our stuff. Using another sign shop can be problematic, but in our case we use someone who's local, we trust implicitly and they're focus is on a different type of clientele. I'm surprised Philly is tough to...
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